You’d be surprised at how many people look for tips on how to paint a room. It may seem pretty straightforward, but it’s actually really easy to screw up.

Just by missing one step in the process, you could end up spending more money on paint and more time on the project. Next thing you know, your weekend DIY home makeover turns into a month-long endeavor.

So what exactly do people get wrong about painting their interior walls? There are questions like how many gallons does it take to paint a room? To prime or not to prime? Which order do you paint a room?

Plus, if you’re just moving into your home, you’re probably looking for paint that lasts. That’s why you don’t want to pick up any old brand of paint at Home Depot. Nothing at all against big orange, but knowing the type of paint, brushes, and primer you’ll need for this project is key for a flawless paint job.

We won’t get overly technical. Instead, let’s just walk through the steps on how to paint a room (properly), plus some extra tips you probably didn’t consider.

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5 Steps On How To Paint a Room Properly 

How many gallons to paint a room

You’re eager to splash some fresh colors on your walls we get it. But without accurately prepping your interior walls, you may not get the look you were going for.

If your plan is to paint this weekend, the best use of your time is to slowly prep throughout the week so that you’re ready for the Big Painting Day when it finally comes.

Step 1: Move Your Furniture

It may not be ideal to have your bedroom furniture displaced in the garage or family room, but it’s only for a few days! Do it. And cover your floors.

You could also opt to cover your furniture. But do NOT trust that you’ll just be extra careful we promise it will go wrong. 

Moving your furniture entirely will help you see blemishes on your walls, and it will make it easier to cover your floors. Plus, you’ll be able to measure your space more accurately.

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Once you move your furniture, measure the room’s length and width. Then use this formula to calculate the square footage:

Length x Width= Feet Squared 

(Example: 10 ft x 10 ft= 100 square feet)

If you have a room that isn’t perfectly square or rectangular, you can find the total area by adding the square footage of the walls that make up the room. Here are some instructions on how to calculate odd room dimensions

You’ll need about a gallon of paint for every 400 square feet. So if you’re painting a room that is 800 square feet, you should pick up at least two gallons of paint.

Step 2: Clean, Caulk, and Covers

Whether this masterpiece is taking place in the living room or the bedroom, you should thoroughly inspect your walls before picking up your paint. 

With furniture out of the way, you’ll be able to see any scrapes or dents. For blemishes, all you need to do is wipe them off with soap and water. For dents or holes, you’ll need to buy some something to repair those with. This stuff is pretty good; it dries in minutes, and it’s only four bucks at Target!

While you’re at it, make sure to remove all the outlet covers for a truly blank canvas. 

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Step 3: Sand and Tape

One of the best tips on how to paint a room really well is to sand it. In fact, you probably don’t even need to use a primer if you have good quality paint and use two coats.

However, if you’re painting over a semi-gloss or gloss paint, you should at least put some sandpaper to it and give it some “teeth.” It’s also worth “dry dusting” the walls to get rid of the sanding dust. 

Now it’s time to break out the painter’s tape! We recommend painting the ceiling first, so secure the tape at the top of your wall at the very edge of your ceiling. If you’re not painting the ceiling, then tape off the trimmings using a good painter’s tape

We also recommend taping around your outlets so that you do NOT paint inside the outlets or switches. That’s a BIG no-no, and potentially dangerous!

Step 4: Prime Time

This is one of our favorite tips on how to paint a room because it can save you money.

The most popular misconception we see from DIY painters is that you have to prime before painting walls. As we mentioned, primer isn’t inherently necessary for painting a room, contrary to popular belief. 

There are only a few instances when you’ll need to prime beforehand:

  1. You’re going from a dark to light color
  2. The paint you’re going over is glossy
  3. Your wall is porous (e.g., you have thirsty, unpainted drywall or plaster walls)
  4. The wall is stained or has an odor 

For example, if you’re going from white to Ultimate Gray and you do a quick wash of your drywall, you don’t need to waste time or money on priming.

Step 5: Paint Day

Now that you’ve taken progressive steps, you can rest assured that you’ll get the paint job completely done this weekend!

Another common question we see is which order to paint a room. Here’s our suggestion:

  1. First, paint the ceiling (if you’re painting it at all).
  2. Next, paint the trim (a.k.a “cutting in”).
  3. Then, paint the walls with the most real estate using a roller paintbrush. Use light pressure to paint from top to bottom.

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3 Extra Tips On How To Paint a Room

Which order to paint a room

Some people ultimately decide to hire professional painters because they have a few tricks that seem to get the job done faster. And well professionally. 

But we decided to give you a few tips on how to paint a room that are trade secrets (so, don’t tell anyone we told you)!

RELATED: HOW TO CHANGE OR REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE IN YOUR HOME

Tip #1: The Importance of Properly Prepping 

tips-on-how-to-paint-a-room

As you can tell from the steps on how to paint a room, a proper prep should usually take longer than the actual painting itself.

At least, if you want a good result. 

And if you want your paint to last for years to come, we recommend doing at least two coats of paint. This prevents “Flashing” or “Holiday-ing” (a common, unofficial trade term), which refers to a bad paint job where you can see a bit of the old paint color underneath.

Tip #2: “Cutting In” 

This is just a fancy term for detailing at the edges of your paint job. 

Cutting in is probably the most frustrating part of painting because it requires painting a straight line (such as the line between your wall and ceiling or two different wall colors).

The best way to cut in is to use a manual brush. Get the best brush you can afford for this. Try to refrain from painting the edge of your walls with a roller brush. Instead, use a stiff-bristled, angled brush to get those precise details.

Here’s a terrific video with visual tips:

Tip #3: Keep the Brush Moving

People like to dip their brush into the paint can and brush it along the side to eliminate the extra paint. After all, who wants paint splatter to end up all over the floor?

However, the better, more professional practice is to dip your brush into the paint and then pat the brush on the edge of the can to remove the excess paint. Then, quickly bring your paintbrush to the wall and keep it moving. This saves you from having to constantly dip your brush into the can, and it helps you achieve a more even paint job. 

When you’re cutting in, the consistent movement helps you achieve that straight line. It also helps to use a “W” pattern with rollers to get the room painted faster and more consistently. 

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Tip #4: Types of Paint Sheens

Ok, we said 3 extra tips, but you’re getting 4 instead. Who doesn’t like a little lagniappe?

So finally, let’s talk about the types of paint sheens you have at your disposal. It can be overwhelming so let’s look at the most popular options for interior walls:

  • Flat/Matte Paint: This paint hides more imperfections, but they scuff and rub away easily if you try to clean it too vigorously. You’ll notice that the interior paint (ceilings and walls) on new construction is almost always “flat” for this reason. A little tradesperson trick!
  • Sheen/Glossy Paint: Glossier paints are easier to clean but are shiny and show more imperfections in the wall. However, they hold up better to moisture.

Then there are options such as eggshell sheen (great for interior walls), satin (best used in kitchens and bathrooms), and semi-gloss for casings (i.e., baseboards, trim moulding, etc.).

Benjamin Moore has an excellent guide for choosing paints based on which room you’re painting.

RELATED: HOW TO INCREASE CURB APPEAL

The bottom line when it comes to tips on how to paint a room: try to choose the best quality paint and brushes that you can afford and never skimp on good prep!

Is it time for your home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

Back in 1992, Hurricane Andrew changed the game for building houses in Florida. The damages it accrued cost about $26.5 billion and, according to the NPS, “more than 250,000 people were left homeless, 82,000 businesses were destroyed or damaged, and about 100,000 residents of south Dade County permanently left the area in Andrew’s wake.”

This unprecedented disaster especially took a toll on the Miami-Dade County area. The massive devastation after Andrew is actually the reason that, since 2002, we’ve had a statewide Florida Building Code (FBC) in effect.

Can you believe that we didn’t have one before this? Prior to the FBC, there were still codes, but it was a hodge-podge of various different rules that the hundreds of jurisdictions statewide implemented and enforced, often inconsistently.

Today, Miami-Dade (and now Broward) Counties are considered the HVHZ (High-Velocity Hurricane Zone). They have the absolute highest requirements in the state for home hurricane protections– and actually, the nation. 

But areas outside of the HVHZ can still have a high risk of wind damage, so The Florida Building Code requires features such as “hurricane windows” (i.e., opening protection) in some other areas of Florida, but not all. 

So you see, determining which and even if you need hurricane windows in Florida can get pretty technical. Let us simplify it for you by breaking down what you actually need to know!

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

What is Opening Protection?

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You may hear your home inspector mention “opening protection” for your home. This refers to any entry into your home that we consider an opening– typically doors, windows, garage doors, skylights, glass blocks, etc.

Opening protection means your doors and windows have a barrier that has been tested against debris impact and pressure in case of a hurricane. So, hurricane windows and hurricane shutters both fall under the umbrella of opening protection. 

Other aspects of opening protection include:

  1. Hurricane shutters
  2. Hurricane windows
  3. Impact windows
  4. Window/door boards, panels, and fabrics

It’s also worth noting that regulations and code requirements for each of these materials differ from county to county, and sometimes in different areas of the same county.

For instance, in Polk county, they don’t require opening protection whatsoever. But in Pinellas County, you definitely do! Plus, nearly all areas within 1-mile of the coast require it statewide. We call this the WBDR (Wind-Borne Debris Region), which the smaller HVHZ (i.e., Miami-Dade/Broward) sits within. 

Here’s a great map from SoFlo Impact Windows that demonstrates which counties in Florida are in WBDR and HVHZ areas that require higher-grade impact hurricane windows:

florida-HVHZ-areas

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Code Compliance

Home inspectors like us who also perform Wind Mitigation Inspections can investigate these aspects of your home. While we don’t perform code inspections, we can prepare a report for your insurance company that may help you qualify for discounts. 

The Florida Building Code is updated every 3-years. This includes the boundaries of the WBDR, which has expanded over time. We are currently on the 7th Edition as of January 2021. 

However, the wind mitigation report is valid for up to five years. Because of this, you should also have a new wind mitigation inspection performed and submitted to your homeowners’ insurance company every five years. 

During this inspection, we determine the weakest form of wind-borne debris protection of each opening. 

The levels of protection from strongest to weakest are:

  • Verified Materials: There should be proof on your home’s openings via a sticker, label, or imprint on the product itself. These can qualify you for higher insurance discounts.
  • Non-Verified Opening Protection products: We can usually tell when you have hurricane-resistant windows or openings, but if there isn’t verified proof, your Wind Mitigation Inspection must select this lower level of opening protection. 
  • No Windborne Debris Protection: This means that your home’s windows, for example, do not have any opening protection whatsoever. 

While the Florida Building Code can specify the required opening protection in your area, you typically do not have to install these features unless building new or performing a replacement. Understanding what’s required and where can be a real challenge. Therefore, we always recommend first contacting your local jurisdiction’s building department for the most accurate requirements at your specific address, before having any work performed.

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Hurricane Window Ratings

hurricane-windows

We always get people asking about ratings when they inquire about their hurricane windows in Florida. But what they’re really asking — in a technical sense — is if the windows have approval ratings for both:

1.) Impact (i.e., large or small missile), and

 2.) Cyclic (i.e., pressure ratings).

Items that are verified as both Impact and Cyclic rated will have gone through independent testing proving their performance. They’ll have either a “Product Approval Number (i.e. FL#),” or a “Notice of Acceptance (NOA)” assigned to them. As mentioned above, this can be verified on the product with a sticker or imprint. The State of Florida provides the Florida Product Approval Number, while Miami-Dade County issues their similar NOA (Notice of Acceptance) to prove these products are “verified.”

It’s important to know that while some items are impact/cyclic verified for the WBDR, they are still not necessarily HVHZ approved. 

Before shopping for hurricane windows for your Florida home, you can search these online databases where you can find product approvals/acceptance yourself. But we still also recommend contacting your local building department, too. In construction speak, we call them the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction).

Also, while the windows and doors themselves can be rated, some specific boards, panels, shutters, or fabrics can also be verified as rated opening protections, and are usually a more affordable option.

If your home is in an HVHZ area, you may even choose to install shutters over your already resilient hurricane windows for double-layer protection during hurricane season.

RELATED: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?

How Much Do Hurricane Windows Cost?

hurricane-windows-in-florida

You’ll never be able to get a straightforward answer when determining how much hurricane windows cost. Location, materials, window size, and experience of your hurricane window installer all play a role in the pricing structure.

To give you an estimate, you can expect to pay about $62 per square foot for your hurricane windows.

RELATED: WHAT IS A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION?

Hurricane Windows vs. Impact Windows Cost

There is no difference between hurricane and impact windows. As we hinted earlier, calling them hurricane windows is really a simple, generalized term. Because these windows are both impact and cyclic tested, you should know that they’ll cost more. According to Home Advisor, the average impact hurricane window will cost between $2,679-14,151.

how-much-do-hurricane-windows-cost-home-advisor

That’s a huge difference, right?

Our advice if you’re already a homeowner is to call your local building official. They’ll be able to tell you what opening protection you specifically need in your area (either on new builds or for replacing windows/doors). Compare these requirements to the windows/doors you already have installed. Look up the labels online for a FL# or NOA if you can. 

Maybe you already have what you need. Or maybe it’s time to shop around. Luckily, there are plenty of “hurricane window” contractors here in Florida. 

Lastly, after all is said and done, then it’s time to get a new wind mitigation inspection performed, which may improve the discounts on your homeowners’ insurance. 

Is it time for your wind mitigation inspection? Contact us for a quote!