As a homeowner, you may not have expected to find yourself learning about the different types of copper pipes— but here you are!

It’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with the components of your home. It can help prevent mistakes and unexpected costs or, at the very least, arm you with enough knowledge to navigate solutions should you run into problems (i.e., a pipe leak).

Copper pipes (also known as copper tubing) are popular in modern American homes. So, chances are good that you have copper plumbing in your house. Their primary function is to move potable water (aka your everyday drinking water). They are also commonly used in appliances such as air conditioners and refrigerators.

These pipes are sturdy, reliable, and (at least in Florida) can be expected to last nearly 70 years! However, their durability all depends on the type of pipe you have. Your location also plays an important factor because some cities have higher levels of acid in their water. The higher the acidic levels are in a given area, the quicker your pipes will corrode.

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Different Types of Copper Pipes

types-of-copper-pipes-homeowners-guide

The easiest way to remember your copper pipe choices is to think of the great Dr. Martin Luther King: M.L.K. That’s because the types of copper pipe you’ll see the most often in a home are:

  • Type M
  • Type L
  • Type K

When it comes to copper, you’ll either find rigid or soft materials. The rigid copper piping can be anywhere between 10-20 feet. Soft copper is bendable, and you’ll typically see it coiled on a hardware store shelf.

So there’s a lot to consider here: do you need soft or rigid copper piping? How long does it need to be? What is it going to be used for?

As soon as you can differentiate the types of copper pipes, you’ll know which one you need to purchase (or fix). And don’t worry— it’s pretty simple! Here’s how you can determine whether you have copper pipe M vs. L vs. K.

RELATED: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GALVANIZED PIPES

Type M Copper Pipe

M copper pipes will be your thinnest option (about 0.032 inches on a 3/4″ pipe), and also the cheapest. You can usually tell which ones are Type M by the red markings on the outside. 

Because of its more delicate exterior, M copper pipes aren’t suitable for some applications. The strength and trajectory of the water may be too powerful, which means the copper is more likely to fail. However, it’s much easier to work with and is often the go-to choice in homes

for heating systems, vacuum systems, and domestic water services. Thin copper is great for interior piping because it’s the easiest to manipulate, making it a seamless option to navigate through the walls of your home.

You can find Type M in coils (soft pipes) or straight tubes (rigid pipes). They’re the most affordable option, but they also may not last as long as other types, particularly depending on the acidity of your local water supply.

RELATED: CUT ATTIC TRUSSES 101

Type L Copper Pipe

This is your medium-thickness option at around 0.045 inches for a 3/4″ inch pipe. It’s thicker than Type M but thinner than Type K copper pipes. You’ll recognize it immediately by its blue markings.

Like Type M, L pipes come in both flexible and rigid forms. Because of this and its dense exterior, you can use it for both outdoor and indoor plumbing. For outdoor use, you can use it for fire protection (e.g., sprinklers) or some HVAC systems. 

Type L copper pipes are famous for their ability to replace old water lines. Since they’re thicker than M-pipes, they won’t corrode or pit as easily, making them an ideal solution for old or leaky pipes.

With so many options, Type L copper pipes are the most popular. Plus, they won’t break the bank! They typically last longer than Type M pipes, even if you have acidic or hard water.

RELATED: WHAT IS GFCI PROTECTION  

Type K Copper Pipe

Of the common copper pipes, Type K one is the densest, with about a 0.065-inch thickness on a 3/4″ pipe. You’ll recognize it by the green markings on the outside.

These are used primarily for your main underground water lines, commercial installations, and HVACs. If you’ve seen a copper pipe on the outside of a house or building coming out of the ground, we can almost guarantee you it’s a Type K copper pipe. 

Type K’s can withstand just about anything, including heavy water pressure and even oil distribution. They can last up to 100 years, and you can even find soft K copper pipes!

Its strength and reliability make this type of pipe the most expensive, which is why they’re primarily used for commercial applications or situations where the highest durability is demanded. 

RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?

Copper DWV Pipe

And finally, we have the DWV copper pipe. You might mistake a DWV as an M pipe at first, but it is easy to spot it by its yellow markings and, usually, its size. 

DWV stands for Drain-Waste-Vent because that’s exactly what they’re used for. Modern construction prefers to use plastic P.V.C. for draining and vent systems. These are becoming more difficult to find installed in newer homes. We will see them in older homes sometimes, but often as a part of a sewage system that includes cast iron pipes.

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

How To Fix Any Copper Pipe Leak

types-of-copper-pipes

Now that you know which pipes are which, let’s talk about how to fix a simple leak. 

As you may have guessed, interior leaks are most likely going to be Type M or L. But before you run off to Home Depot for a replacement line, let’s first take a look at the warning signs and what they mean:

  • Green corrosion: This is known as “patina” and is copper’s version of rust. It’s an oxidation process and could be from water or air chemistry or simply because your pipe is older. 
  • Water: Is the water only leaking from the connection, or is water covering the entire pipe? The former means you may just need to “sweat” the tube (more on that in a sec) or use another form of repair at the connection, and the latter means you need a replacement pipe. 
  • Water stains on the wall/ceiling: Your pipe may just need soldering (i.e., “sweating”) at a connection, but it also may mean the pipe needs replacement. 

When there’s a heavy amount of green corrosion, it may be best to have your copper pipes replaced. However, if you’re simply noticing a small leak, then all you need to do is sweat (or solder) your pipes. There are also push and compression fittings available to make water-tight connections on pipes that don’t involve soldering/sweating and fire.

Here’s a great video on how to do that!

 

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

Whether you’re a homeowner, a real estate agent, or a fellow home inspector, you need to recognize this one specific method of improper subpanel bonding. It can be dangerous and it’s just something you don’t want to mess around with. 

Here it is: Your ground and neutral wires definitely need to bond (or connect) together. But this is ONLY allowed in the main panel— never a subpanel, or anywhere else in the home.

This is a very common mistake we see in the electrical part of your inspection. Although some “professionals” have made this mistake by failing to remove the bonding screw/strap, it’s usually more a sign of amateur electrical work. 

That’s why today, we’re going to go over how to properly layout your subpanel wiring and what can happen if it’s not fixed right away.

RELATED: IS YOUR HOME FIRE SAFE?

What Are Subpanels?

neutral and ground wiring

Inspectors, you can probably sit this one out. But as a brief overview, your subpanel is one of the electrical boxes at your house (sometimes it’s in the garage). Not all homes have them, as some only have a main panel only. But if you have 2 or more panels, the one with the main “service disconnect” (i.e. shut-off) is the main panel, while any other panels are considered subpanels.

You may have also heard the main panel referred to as a service panel. This is the area where you have complete control over the power within your home.

One flick of a switch, and you can turn out all the lights. 

A subpanel has its own breaker switches, but not the main. These typically control specific rooms or appliances in your home or other buildings on your property.

RELATED: THE BASICS OF AFCI PROTECTION

Hot, Neutral and Ground Wiring— What’s The Difference?

In both of these panel boxes, there are four types of wires: 

  • Two hot wires (black or red casing)
  • One neutral wire (white casing), and  
  • One ground wire (green casing or bare metal wire – usually copper or aluminum) 

The hot wires carry the energy to a fixture (e.g. a wall plug or the stove in your house). For a 120V circuit, it will be just one hot wire. If it’s 240V (e.g. a dryer, water heater, or range/stove), then two (2) hot wires will go to those fixtures.

The neutral wires will then carry the energy (technically known as current/amperage) from those circuits back to the panel. This effectively completes the electric circuit, thus generating power. 

Congratulations, you now understand how electricity works (and with just three wires)!

So what’s the point of the fourth one— the ground wire? 

Ground Wires

bonded-subpanel-ground-wire

This one provides safety. 

Hot and neutral wires are dangerous because they’re constantly running electricity through them. When you have something like frayed wiring cords or loose wire connections, it can cause those wires and their electrical currents to get mixed up. This is what causes short circuits. 

Short circuits can emit sparks and cause fires. This is why we always recommend that you keep your appliances and electrical devices up-to-date. 

However, any potential short circuits are derailed with a ground wire because this sends all those faulty electrical currents right back to the source, or the ground.

This is why you need to separate the ground and neutral. But more on that in a second.

The main point is that the ground wire generally isn’t used at all as part of the normal circuit operation. It’s a backup (also known as a secondary or earth ground) and is only there for safety in case the neutral fails. This way, the electricity doesn’t end up energizing the body of the appliance… or a human body.

In fact, neutral wires are also called grounded conductors because they technically act as a ground as well. Consider them the primary ground. Actually, on older homes (the kind with only 2-prong outlets), there often was no additional ground.

We have come a long way!

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Here’s What Improper Subpanel Bonding Looks Like

Your main panel and your subpanel both contain those four sets of wires

So here’s the difference and how you can spot novice electrical work.

Below is the anatomy of the main service panel. Code Check’s image shows how the neutral wire (white) is connected to the bus bar on the right. Further down that bus bar is a screw or strap that “bonds” it to the metal bar that leads to the left side of the panel. And on the left side of the panel, you can see the ground wires (also known as the EGC/GEC’s). This effectively bonds (or connects) the neutral and ground together in the same service enclosure. But remember, this can only happen in the main/service panel – never the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

In Code Check’s subpanel wiring diagram, you can see that those neutral wires are not bonded. This means that the neutral wires are not connected to the ground wires. They both have their own individual paths in the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

Why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel?

So, why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel? Because when we bond them together, it gives your neutral wire (the one carrying electrical currents BACK to the source) multiple pathways. 

That’s how the chassis of some equipment will become energized. The effect can be as seemingly harmless as “I touched the fridge, and it shocked me!” To far more serious matters. 

The most common issues that come from not separating ground and neutral wires in a subpanel are:

  1. Shock
  2. Corrosion
  3. Fire

subpanel-bonding

As we mentioned before, ground wires help prevent short circuits, therefore preventing things like getting a shock and house fires.

A short circuit usually happens when there are loose or frayed wires. But when there are numerous electrical faults or massive amounts of electricity coursing through these bad wires, adding a third wire to the same pathway— the ground wire— creates more risk to these events. 

Thus, the ground wire needs to have a limitless path (free of the neutral wire’s electrical currents) so that it can safely prevent short circuits.

Corrosion can happen because of improper subpanel bonding as well. This is because the excessive electrical currents (coming from the hot, neutral, and ground wires) can accelerate the rate at which metal pipes or buildings start to erode.

Check out this video for a visual!

 

RELATED: WHAT IS GFCI PROTECTION 

How To Separate Neutral and Ground in Subpanel

This is work for a qualified electrician. It’s often a simple repair, but needs to be left to the professionals.

The difference may be as simple as having a green screw or bonding strap connected in your service panel – and not having it connected in the subpanel. Sometimes we will see neutrals and ground wires terminated on the same bus bar in the subpanels as well, often when a novice adds additional circuits (such as in the garage). This is effectively bonding the ground and neutrals together. You can do this in the main panel, but never should do it in a subpanel.

Yep, separating your ground wire from the neutrals in your subpanel can be as simple as that. However, we always recommend having an experienced electrician take a look.

RELATED: ARE HOME INSPECTIONS WORTH THE COST?

 

Want us to inspect your subpanel bonding? Contact us for a quote!

If you’re shopping for a home in this red hot market, you’re going to need to be as competitive as possible.

That means being able to make the best offer possible.

To make the best offer, you need access to the best interest rates.

How do you get the best interest rates? A great credit score.

I think we can all agree that real estate prices just about everywhere are feeling a little, well, insane.

This is just one area where economy inflation is rearing its head – gas, groceries, and many other everyday items are creeping higher.

As we emerge from the pandemic there are a few big-ticket items that you might want to re-consider as supply and demand settle down.

According to US Census data from 2019 and 2020, Polk County is one of the fastest growing metro areas in the entire country.

The New York Times broke down data from the Census and found that Lakeland-Winter Haven, FL was tied for the 2nd fastest growing metro with Boise, Idaho. No surprise that Austin, TX took the top spot.

If you want to make sure you’re paying a fair price for your investment, a home inspection is a must. The point of this in-depth home analysis is to make sure all the plumbing, electrical, mechanical, and structural aspects of your new home are in working order. If they’re not, you may have some room to negotiate your offer price, or move on to another prospective property. 

But how long does a home inspection take, and when can you expect to get the results of the report? 

RELATED: MYTHS ABOUT HOME INSPECTIONS DEBUNKED

How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

home-inspection-checklist

Since most buyers want to be present during the inspection, it’s natural to want to know how long the process takes. On average, you should expect the home inspection to take 2-2.5 hours. 

With the market the way it is right now, many buyers are opting out of a home inspection. This could turn out to be a huge mistake because you may end up eating the costs of much-needed home repairs. 

That’s why we recommend not only getting a cost-effective home inspection but also encourage you to be present so that you can ask any questions. At this time, if you choose not to come due to safety measures, you can expect the home inspection report within 24-48 hours.

We also understand how stressful a home purchase is, so if you choose to be present, know that we have your safety in mind. We require practicing social distancing and properly worn masks at all times. We’ll even have hand sanitizer handy!

Now, there are many opinions out there about how long a home inspection should take. Some say 3-4 hours, but most won’t be that long. But we have had some that have taken all day! A few factors will slow down in inspection, so keep these in mind while you’re touring the house for the first time. 

 

RELATED: TEN IMPORTANT QUESTIONS TO ASK YOUR FLORIDA HOME INSPECTOR

Things That Will Slow Down a Home Inspection

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

What can make a home inspection go from a few hours to an all-day endeavor? Well, the process is primarily based on four things: size, age, and the condition of the home play a big role. Excessive clutter and personal items in the way matter, too!

Size

So, a small condo can be as quick as an hour, while a large home can take 4-6 hours… or even more! The average size house (3BR/2BA) takes about 2-3 hours. 

Also, keep in mind that the pool/spa, wind mitigationthermal imaging, and irrigation inspections can add to the time frame in which we complete the examination. 

Age 

With great age comes great responsibility. So we do our due diligence! Older homes tend to have more issues, so we make sure to work through the house, keeping a keen eye out for things like plumbing, electrical, roof, and mechanical discrepancies.

Clutter

If there are currently residents occupying the home, that can really slow down how long it takes. We’ve had some homes so bloated with “stuff” that it took a while just because it was tough to navigate. 

Keep in mind that home inspectors don’t move personal items, which is why a cluttered home can make the job take twice as long. 

Type of Inspection

This article is primarily about the general home inspection. However, additional inspections requested may add to the time the visit takes.

Home insurance companies require a four-point inspection for older homes 30+ years old. A four-point inspection is limited to only a few systems, so it takes about 30-45 minutes. You will also likely have a wind mitigation inspection performed, which could result in discounts on your insurance. This inspection also takes additional steps and time to perform.

A general home inspection requires many more systems and components to be inspected. This type of inspection requires at least twice as long. When the other insurance inspections are bundled with this, it can add at least an hour.

Don’t make the mistake of skipping out on a full inspection to save time and money, though. These insurance inspections are not a substitute for a complete general home inspection. A thorough report of the condition of your prospective home can be the difference of thousands of dollars less by the time you sit at the closing table. 

 

RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION

What a Home Inspection Includes

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

The inspection time period occurs after your offer is accepted. You should have had a clause in your sales contract that says the final purchase is contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. And while no property can technically “fail” an assessment, if your inspector identifies structural and/or major system flaws (especially anything safety-related), you’ll have more information to either negotiate a more favorable price, or even walk-away. 

The seller and the buyer will come up with a mutually agreed-upon time to get this inspection done. Then, the buyer schedules the inspection, and we come out and do what we do best! The default time frame to get an inspection completed is 15-days per the contract. However, especially in a competitive market, your contract may have a shorter time allotted, so be sure to know exactly how long you have. And don’t wait to the last minute to schedule. We can often do an inspection as soon as the next day, but in busy times the schedules can fill up quickly! 

Here is our complete home inspection checklist. Once the inspection starts, you will know the state of everything from the home’s roof to the plumbing after just a few hours!

NEXT: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

 

So, you’re thinking about buying a Florida home. Most articles you’ll find on this topic are going to walk you through the process of finding an agent, looking into neighborhoods, and getting pre-qualified.

But before you do any of that, you need to think about the type of Florida home you want to buy (and your budget). 

Taking care of a Florida house isn’t even close to how you’ve maintained your house through the seasons in your northern home. And that’s mostly because we don’t really have traditional seasons here in Florida. 

Instead, you need to consider what the upkeep costs might be, insurance, and what you can negotiate in terms of closing costs. And, of course, location is everything when you’re buying a home in Florida.

 

RELATED: HOME INSURANCE IN FLORIDA: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before Buying a Florida Home: Understand Our Weather

when is florida hurricane season

To be fair, we don’t even understand our weather sometimes. Just expect to have a nice cool breeze from October to May with a couple of weekends of cold fronts somewhere in between. Then from May-September, brace yourself for an almost unbearable heat— and some rain. 

Now, that heat and rain will be the primary factors you should consider when picking out your new home. It’s important to note that you’ll use your AC a lot more during the summer months, and pests can get out of hand when there’s a lot of downpours. Ah downpours, often these show up like clockwork. In fact, we have our own unofficial monsoon season (we just call it the rainy season), and it has recently been calculated to officially begin on May 25th.

Speaking of downpours, let’s talk about hurricanes. Hurricanes don’t hit us as often as people think. But when they do, it’s hard to predict how your home will weather the storm. That’s why factors such as windows, roofs, and event the type of build are going to play a pivotal role in choosing a house. 

This fickle weather means that you should make sure that the Florida house you’re looking into has its interior and exterior basis covered. 

 

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

What To Expect For The Interior of Your Florida Home

Let’s pretend you’re touring the first of many potential Florida homes. What should you ask your agent or Realtor®, and what should you keep an eye out for?

Here are some things to factor into your decision-making before purchasing a house in Florida.

1. AC

buying-a-florida-home

If the house is older, ask when the last time the AC was replaced or inspected. Older homes are inherently less efficient, and older AC systems may have a harder time keeping up with the Florida heat. 

Trust us, when buying a house here, an excellent AC system should be at the top of your list (if you want to survive the summer, anyway ;D).

2. Pests

buying-a-florida-home

Keep an eye out for common Florida pests. We’re talking ants, spiders, fleas, ticks, termites and roaches, just to name a few. 

Ants, in particular, can cause issues, especially during the rainy season. Ants called “crazy ants” are attracted to electrical currents, like the ones in your air conditioning unit. When one too many of these ants find their way into your warm, cozy AC unit, it can cause your wires to short circuit. And nobody needs that kind of stress during the summer months.

Crazy ants are common in Florida, so look over the AC to see if there’s a colony of ants swarming nearby. If so, remember to keep in mind that you may have to hire pest control after buying your Florida home. 

Termites are also a constant threat. Make sure you arrange for a Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) inspection when arranging your inspections for buying a home here. That’s a different inspection than the home inspection itself,  so the home inspector likely will not inspect for this, but it’s important not to overlook this one. Make sure to arrange a WDO inspection. Your home inspector or agent may even be able to suggest a company and arrange them for you.

Above all, it’s important to remember that although we love living here, we’re absolutely on their turf. Regular professional pest control services are a necessity you should budget for when living in Florida.

 

UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

What To Expect For The Exterior of Your Florida Home

We do things differently here in Florida, and construction is no different. We have a unique, sometimes brutal climate and weather. So the way we build our houses reflects those conditions. 

Here are three more things to think about when you’re buying a house in Florida:

3. CMU Walls

buying a home in florida

CMU stands for Concrete Masonry Unit’s. In simpler terms, it’s Concrete Block Construction. You’ll find that we build most modern Central and South Florida homes with concrete blocks walls because of the threat of hurricane impacts. Naturally, cement blocks are going to hold up against impacts in 120+ mph winds better than wooden structures. However, a good wood frame structure still has it’s merit and has more strength than you might believe if it’s engineered correctly. 

You won’t find many wood-framing homes except in the north part of the state or older homes. However, some houses in Florida combine CMUs with wood construction. Generally, concrete blocks make up the first floor, and the second story will have wood framing.

RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

4. Stucco

buying-a-florida-home

When you’re buying a home in Florida, there is one aspect that sticks out more than others:

STUCCO! Lots of stucco!

Stucco is a cement-based siding that is prevalent in across Florida homes. You’ll recognize it from the hard, textured exterior façade that most homes here have.

The problem with stucco is that, like all cement products, it is porous. If it’s not properly maintained, water can seep into the stucco and lead to issues such as mold, termites, or structural damage. Keep these things in mind when you look into buying a Florida home. The best maintenance for stucco is well maintained exterior painting. Which leads us to the final topic.

 

RELATED: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GALVANIZED PIPES

5. Painting

buying-a-florida-home

And with stucco, you also have to consider the painting of your home. Paint is the main water defense in block/stucco walls homes. 

Because it rains plenty in Florida, you’ll need to paint your home’s exterior more often. If you rub your hand on a stucco wall and it is “chalky,” it’s time to paint! You should expect to paint the exterior of the home every 5-6 years or so. If you see hairline cracks in your stucco, know that this is common and not necessarily an indication of a scary problem. In fact, some cracks are to be expected. What is critical is that they are patched and painted, to prevent moisture intrusion. This is a big part of proper home maintenance in Florida. 

NEXT: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

What is GFCI protection, and why do homeowners need to know about it?

You’ll often know if your outlets have this protection from a simple glance. Nowadays, these features are commonplace, so you may not have given them a second thought. These outlets will usually have a “GFCI protected” sticker on them, or will have the Test and Reset button placed in between the outlet sockets. 

Look around your house right now. Do you notice any? How about outlets that don’t have this feature? If your outlets don’t have the buttons, that doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t have the protection.

Only the first outlet in the circuit needs it, and then all other outlets downstream will also be protected. Plus in some instances, a GFCI breaker may be installed in the panel, in lieu of being at the outlet. 

GFCI protection has only been around a few decades, so if you live in an older home, you may find that most of your outlets don’t have these square buttons where we would expect them today. This poses a dangerous risk (which we’ll tell you about in just a sec), and you should consider an electrical upgrade as soon as possible. 

Even if you do have updated outlets, it’s not uncommon for these protections to become faulty. This is why you should be testing them in your home every month. 

But don’t scroll down just yet. If you need to know how to test a GFCI outlet, then it’s very important to understand what it is, why you need it, and yes— how it works.

 

RELATED: HOME INSPECTION CHECKLIST

What is GFCI Protection  

gfci protection cost

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. In simple terms, this is just fancy electrical protection that prevents you from being shocked. That’s why NEC (National Electrical Code) requires GFCI protection for every room at a home that is close to a water source. 

As of 2021, many spaces now require GFCI protection. Back in 1971, only swimming pools and the exterior required GFCI protection. Bathrooms were added in 1975, and then garages in 1978. Hot tubs/spas were added to the list in 1981.

Later in 1987 kitchens, unfinished basements, spa bathtubs and boathouses were added. It used to be that only outlets within 6-feet of the kitchen sink needed GFCI protection, but that was later expanded to include outlets serving all countertop surfaces.

Outlets under the kitchen sink generally still do not need GFCI protection, however.

1990 saw the addition of crawlspaces and in 1993, wet bars were added. Things remain unchanged until 2005 when laundry outlets were added to the requirement.

Today, nearly all outlets near swimming pool areas, the exterior, kitchens, crawl spaces, garages, boathouses, basements, and laundry areas should be equipped with this protection.

Essentially, a ground fault circuit interrupters must be used for all of the following except:

  • Fixed electric snow melting equipment
  • Receptacles that are not readily accessible (such as under the kitchen sink, although we still recommend it).
  • Some Receptacles tied to an outdoor dedicated branch circuit (e.g., a sump pump)

The NEC updates their requirements every three years. The electrical section of the Florida Building Code (FBC) is based on the NEC, so be mindful of that if you’re a homeowner.

Also, keep in mind that your local building department may have additional requirements. We always recommend checking with your local building department for the most current and accurate code information.

What Does It Do?

Have you ever been afraid of getting shocked while plugging in a hairdryer or maybe a toaster? GFCI protection directly addresses these concerns. 

Pretty much what it can do is sense a change in electrical currents that prompts the outlet to switch off immediately. Maybe you have you’re reading your Kindle in the bathtub, but you have it charging in a nearby outlet. To save you from potentially shocking yourself should you drop it in the water, the GFCI will turn itself off in about 20-30 milliseconds. 

125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp receptacles

What’s the Difference Between GFCI vs. GFI

Absolutely nothing. We sometimes use GFCI and GFI (ground fault interrupters) interchangeably, but they are the same device. 

GFCI vs. AFCI

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI’s) are even more modern than GFCI. They came into homes around 1999, and they look similar to GFCIs, with the same test and reset buttons. 

The main difference between these two is that GFCI’s protect you from an electrical shock, whereas AFCI protects your house from potential fires caused by arcing & sparking. 

GFCI’s keep control of ground faults while AFCI interrupts “arcing faults” that usually come from bad wiring.

Ground faults can cause bodily harm, whereas bad wiring (such as arc faults) are responsible for starting more than 28,000 home fires, according to The Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI).

 

RELATED: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

How To Install a GFCI Outlet 

what-is-gfci-protection

Can you install a GFCI outlet on your own? Most of the time— yes. If any of these outlets stop working in your home, it’s crucial to replace them right away.

Especially if the faulty outlet is in a wet location such as a bathroom or kitchen. But if you have any doubts or discomfort working with electricity, an electrician really should perform this work.

 

Here’s a quick breakdown of how to install a GFCI outlet:

Step 1: Turn off the circuit breaker. 

Step 2: Remove the outlet cover and the switch with a screwdriver (Pro-Tip: test the outlet with an electrical outlet testing tool to make sure it is completely off and no currents are flowing through the wires)

Step 3: Disconnect the “hot wire” with (right side, black wire, brass screw)

Step 4: Disconnect the neutral wire (left side, white wire, silver screw)

Step 5: Disconnect the grounding wire (green or tan insulation and screw) 

Step 6: Replace the outlet with GFCI, making sure to follow the instructions on the package and use the appropriate screws for each wire.

If you have fewer than 2 wires or more than 3 in your old outlet, call an electrician as these outlets will require a few extra steps. 

 

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GFCI Protection Cost

Ground-fault circuit interrupters

A standard GFCI outlet costs anywhere from $15 to $50 at your local hardware store. You’ll need to know the amp and voltage of each outlet you are replacing before going the DIY route.

Ground-fault circuit interrupters absolutely need to be installed by an electrician when there is anything more or less than three wires. We also don’t recommend installing these yourself if you have little home improvement experience (there’s still the risk of being shocked, after all!).

If you hire an electrician for your GFCI protection, the average cost to replace a single outlet with a licensed professional is about $120 per receptacle. 

 

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How To Test GFCI Outlet

GFCI protection outlet

You should be testing your GFCI protection outlet every single month. 

Here’s how it’s done:

Step 1: Plug a lamp, phone charger, or some other small electrical device into your outlet

Step 2: Press the “Test” button. If you hear a clicking sound, this indicates the circuit has tripped, and the lamp or phone should turn off.  

Step 3: Press the “Reset” button (it should have popped out when you hit “Test”). If the lamp or phone turns back on, then your GFCI protector is working just fine! If not, try these next steps:

 

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What To Do When Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Won’t Reset

If your GFCI button won’t push in, the solution may be as simple as pushing it harder to reach the unit. If still it doesn’t reset, there may be another GFCI on the same circuit keeping you from being able to reset it.

More than one on a circuit can sometimes be finicky. So go ahead and trip that second one, and then try to reset the first one.

Lastly, head to the service panel to see if you need to reset the circuit breaker. If all else fails, you probably either have a faulty GFCI or even a true ground-fault condition. In this case, further repairs are needed so you should call a qualified electrician.

 

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