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Irrigation Inspections: Why They Matter for Homeowners and Your Landscape

If you have an irrigation system or are planning to install one, you may have heard the term irrigation inspections and wondered what they involve. An irrigation inspection is a focused evaluation of your sprinkler system, designed to make sure everything is working properly, efficiently, and without hidden issues that could lead to waste or damage. Whether you are preparing a landscape for seasonal changes or trying to reduce your utility bill, understanding how irrigation inspections work can help you protect your investment and keep your yard healthy.

Understanding Irrigation Inspections

An irrigation inspection looks at the key components of your sprinkler system to confirm they are functioning as intended. These inspections are often recommended when buying or selling a home, installing a new system, or preparing for seasonal maintenance. They help prevent costly repairs and water waste by identifying problems early.

Unlike general home inspections that may glance at exterior systems, irrigation inspections are focused strictly on your sprinkler system’s performance and condition. From the control valves to the sprinkler heads and backflow devices, an irrigation inspection examines how the entire network operates together.

Why Homeowners Should Consider Irrigation Inspections

Irrigation systems are valuable, but they can be complex. Leaks, clogs, worn parts, and improper pressure can all reduce system efficiency and lead to higher water bills or damage to your lawn and garden. Insurance companies generally do not require irrigation inspections, but for homeowners, the benefits go beyond risk management.

Having a system professionally evaluated gives you peace of mind. It ensures that your sprinklers apply water evenly, that there are no hidden leaks eating away at your budget, and that the irrigation is set up to protect your landscaping investment. Detecting issues early can extend the lifespan of your system and avoid emergency repairs in peak watering seasons.

What Systems Are Covered in Irrigation Inspections

Irrigation inspections look at several components of your sprinkler system. These include the controller (or timer), valves, backflow preventer, water lines, sprinkler heads, and drip systems when present.

A key part of the inspection is verifying that the controller is programmed correctly and responding as it should. This ensures zones activate as expected and that timers match your landscape’s needs for efficient watering.

Valves and backflow preventers are checked for proper operation. Backflow devices are especially important because they prevent irrigation water from contaminating your home’s potable water supply — a safety concern as well as a code requirement.

The inspector also looks at water lines and pipe connections for leaks, breaks, or damage. Sprinkler heads are checked for damage, correct spray patterns, and proper alignment to avoid watering sidewalks or driveways instead of the lawn.

How These Inspections Differ From Other Inspections

An irrigation inspection is not the same as a full home inspection or a plumbing inspection. While a home inspection may briefly observe the presence of an irrigation system, it doesn’t evaluate every component for performance or efficiency. A plumbing inspection focuses on inside water lines and fixtures, whereas an irrigation inspection is dedicated to your outdoor watering system and its unique pressures and controls.

This dedicated focus allows irrigation inspectors to use specialized knowledge and techniques to find issues that a more general inspection might miss. It also means the report will be formatted specifically to document system health and any recommended repairs.

Preparing Your Home

Preparation for an irrigation inspection is minimal but helpful. Make sure the controller is accessible and that zones can be activated during the inspection. If your system has been winterized, arrangements can be made to restore water and enable testing.

Clearing tall grass or obstacles around sprinkler heads helps the inspector see them clearly. Providing access to the backflow preventer and any irrigation shut‑off valves also makes the process quicker and more accurate.

Common Outcomes After Irrigation Inspections

After an irrigation inspection, homeowners usually receive a detailed assessment of system performance and any issues found. The inspector may note leaks, misaligned heads, pressure irregularities, or components near the end of their useful life.

These findings can serve as a roadmap for repairs or upgrades. Addressing issues like leaks and improper spray patterns not only improves lawn health but can significantly reduce water usage and lower monthly utility costs.

For buyers and sellers, an irrigation inspection report can support negotiation and help avoid surprises after closing. For homeowners keeping their system long‑term, it provides clarity and a maintenance plan to prolong system life.

FAQs About Irrigation Inspections

What triggers the need for an irrigation inspection?
Irrigation inspections are typically beneficial during home sales, after installation, or before seasonal changes in watering needs. They are also recommended if you notice uneven watering, soggy spots, or high water bills.

How long does an irrigation inspection take?
Most irrigation inspections take between 45 and 90 minutes, depending on system size and accessibility.

Can a homeowner fail an irrigation inspection?
There is no pass or fail, but significant deficiencies may be noted, and repairs or adjustments may be recommended to improve performance and efficiency.

Do irrigation inspections include testing water pressure?
Yes. Water pressure is an important part of the evaluation because improper pressure can lead to inefficient watering and premature wear on components.

Is an irrigation inspection required by insurance?
Irrigation inspections are usually not required by homeowners’ insurance, but they are highly recommended for system performance, water conservation, and landscape health.

Irrigation inspections help homeowners protect one of their most valuable outdoor assets, their landscape and sprinkler system. By identifying issues early and ensuring efficient performance, these inspections save money, reduce waste, and provide confidence that your irrigation system is ready to perform year after year.

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Certified Home Inspection for Single-Stranded Aluminum Branch-Circuit Wiring & Its Risks

If your home was built in the 1960s or 1970s, a certified home inspection of its electrical wiring is extremely important to ensure it is safe for you and your family. During this period, due to copper shortages because of the Vietnam War, many homes’ branch-circuit wirings were made with single-strand aluminum. This substituted material has been identified as a fire-danger to homes due to aluminum’s poor conductivity, compared to that of typical copper. Occasionally, we’ve even found this wiring in homes outside of this era.

As a material, aluminum expands and contracts much more than typical copper wiring, which can cause loose connections as electricity passes through, potentially resulting in a fire. In fact, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), homes that have aluminum branch-circuit wiring are 55-times more likely to have connections that are deemed fire-hazards than homes with typical copper wiring.

With a home inspection from Whitt Inspections, our inspectors are trained to identify homes with this dangerous aluminum-based wiring. A certified inspection is the best and safest way to ensure your home is safe from this fire-hazard, as without a direct, visual inspection, detection is nearly impossible. Aluminum-based wiring is prone to overheating and fire with no previous signs of issues, meaning a failure could happen at any moment with no previous indication.

Not only is aluminum much more prone to expanding and contracting, it is also more resistant to electrical flow than its copper counterpart, which means it requires larger wires to pass electricity. With homes today using more electricity, these dangerous and dated aluminum-wired circuits are more susceptible to being overloaded with greater electricity usage, potentially resulting in a fire. Aluminum wiring is also more likely to fall victim to corrosion as a result of usage and age, also posing a fire-hazard.

It’s important to note that not all aluminum wiring is considered bad, and some is still even installed on new construction today. These are mainly multi-strand aluminum wires, which are still regularly used on service and entrance conductors, as well as larger circuits in the home like the stove, water heater and HVAC systems. This is typically fine. It’s the single-strand wire variety that can be of concern. Although alloys were revised to this wiring over the years that may have somewhat improved its performance, single-strand aluminum is still a concern. Also, you may run into obstacles obtaining homeowners’ insurance. Fortunately, there are CPSC approved repairs available that can be performed by a qualified electrician, which many insurance carriers will accept. 

If your home was built in the 1960s and 1970s, a home inspection to analyze the condition and material of your electrical systems is highly-recommended to ensure the home is safe. Call today to have your home inspected and have the confidence that it is in as great condition as possible. If we do find single-strand aluminum wiring, we will let you know and recommend options a qualified electrician can perform to repair or even replace them.

For all your home inspection needs, choose Whitt Inspections. 

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What is NOT included during a Home Inspection?

A home inspection covers many vital parts of the home. The exterior, interior, roof, foundation, electrical, HVAC and plumbing systems, and permanent built-in appliances are a few general examples of what gets investigated during a standard home inspection. If you want to know more about what IS included in the home inspection, check out our article here: https://www.whittinspections.com/home-inspections/whats-included-in-a-home-inspection/

However, you’re here because you want to know what is NOT included in a standard home inspection. Put simply, since the inspection is a non-invasive, visual-only inspection, anything that can’t be realistically reached by the inspector isn’t included. Home inspectors will check hard to reach places, like crawl spaces or attics where possible, but anything that requires extreme climbing or any digging will remain unreported.

Another thing to note is if an area is blocked or inaccessible (for example if the attic has no entrance or the crawl space is covered in water or, gasp, snakes!) it will most likely not be inspected. Some specific items that aren’t investigated during a home inspection include the septic system, the chimney interior, underground pipes and the  inside of pipes.

If you want your septic system examined, then you’ll have to order a separate inspection from a qualified septic contractor. People often assume that this service is included in a standard home inspection, but the next time you’re scheduling for an inspection, don’t anticipate a report on your septic system. It wouldn’t be realistic to expect an inspector to investigate this system. The reason being, it requires a separate license in Florida, and to properly inspect a home’s septic system, digging and pumping the tank would be required. . If you’re worried about when you should have your septic system examined, we recommend to always have it done before purchase, and InterNACHI recommends that you also have it repeated annually .

Chimneys aren’t completely avoided during a home inspection, but the inside won’t be looked into thoroughly. A basic chimney inspection doesn’t require special tools as it mostly consists of an inspector doing a visual check from the fireplace and chimney.  During a standard home inspection, the home inspector will check to make sure there aren’t any obvious problems with the chimney, but they won’t perform an interior scope of the chimney and some areas cannot be seen visually from the entrance However, if you’re getting ready to sell your home then a thorough chimney inspection is recommended, for safety reasons.

Pools and hot tubs are not included in a standard home inspection. If you’re considering a home with a pool, then you’ll need to order a separate inspection. Pools have intricate systems and it takes time and experience to properly, and thoroughly, inspect them. During a pool inspection the filters, heaters, pumps, and other electrical appliances each need to be individually investigated, adding these components to a home inspection would take too much time. A standard inspection will cover plumbing and even your house’s water system, but pools and hot tubs are another matter entirely. However, we offer this service as an add-on inspection, if desired.

Other items not included in a standard general home inspection are anything that requires a specialized license, tools or laboratory testing. Some examples of this would be Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) inspections, air quality, radon, lead, asbestos and other environmental identification or testing. Home inspectors do not check refrigerant levels on the HVAC systems, and it is also beyond the scope to perform load calculations determining if your AC or electrical service is properly sized.

There are some popular TV shows that give the wrong idea about what a home inspection entails. It’s important to distinguish that these shows are for entertainment purposes only, and don’t represent reality. Home inspections are non-invasive and visual-only, meaning, we don’t remove drywall or carpet, and don’t move personal items such as furniture. These are not technically exhaustive inspections.

Having proper understanding and expectations of a home inspection is key. The home inspection is only one piece of the puzzle when doing your due diligence before buying a home. It should only be considered as supplemental to other information you may obtain in the process such as the seller’s disclosure, title company research, crime statistics, and simply viewing the property yourself. Absolutely no home is perfect, and the purchase of real estate is not without some risk.

The best way we’ve found to view a home inspection is to see us as similar to a general practitioner doctor, but for houses. If you feel bad, you may go see your general practice doctor. If they find a potential issue with your heart, then they would refer you to a cardiologist – a specialist. Maybe if your foot is swollen, they would then refer you to a podiatrist. Think of a home inspector in the same manner. We are generalists, not specialists. If we (the generalist) detect an issue with your electric panel, we would recommend further evaluation by a qualified electrician (the specialist or expert). Damaged roofing shingles? We will recommend a qualified roofer, and so forth.

Home inspections are valuable services and cover a large part of the home’s primary components, but that doesn’t mean it covers everything. A lot of time is spent going over each room in a home and by the end of the inspection you’ll have a good idea of what needs fixing or further evaluation, and what doesn’t. If your home has special components that go beyond the scope of a standard general home inspection,  then you’ll need to schedule an appointment with a qualified  specialist who’s trained in those fields.

 

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Risks of Skipping Home Inspection as a Buyer

The housing industry continues to gain traction as more people invest in new homes. While you may feel moved by the photos you see online from sellers, it can be risky if you decide to buy a home without doing a thorough home inspection. If you skip the inspection, you risk letting minor and major issues go undetected. Which means any repair costs will end up coming out of your pocket. Without a report from a home inspector, your insurance company may not cover pre-existing issues discovered after purchase. There are lenders out there who won’t even offer financing opportunities without an inspection. Here are the risks of skipping a home inspection.

Safety Issues May not Be Identified
Some homes may have safety issues, and buying such a home without a home inspection can lead to various challenges once you move in. Safety issues such as electrical hazards, potential fire outbreaks, carbon monoxide, mold, pests, and radon could lead to severe injuries or even death in your household.

Budgeting for Future Repairs becomes Challenging
Without a home inspection, you may not identify various problems that need repairs and replacement. In this case, you won’t be able to budget for future expenses. This can distract your budgeting, leading to financial hardships in the long run.

A home with repair needs can be draining, and you will have to spend most of your time and money fixing the issues. The good thing with a home inspection is that you get armed with knowledge about the current state of the home. You will know how to budget for repairs and replacements.

Buyers Fail to Get the Big Picture
Everyone wants to invest money in a home that is worth every dollar spent. However, without an inspection, you may overlook minor issues that can become a bigger nightmare in the long run. This can lead to frustrations, and you may not enjoy your home until you fix the issues. Doing a home inspection helps you identify the nitty-gritty details and make informed decisions when purchasing a home.

The Bottom Line
It is imperative to schedule a home inspection to avoid future problems with your new home. Consider working with a professional home inspector who understands every detail and can help you conduct a thorough inspection worth a bang for your buck.

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Hurricane Windows in Florida: Rating, Cost, and Protection Levels

Back in 1992, Hurricane Andrew changed the game for building houses in Florida. The damages it accrued cost about $26.5 billion and, according to the NPS, “more than 250,000 people were left homeless, 82,000 businesses were destroyed or damaged, and about 100,000 residents of south Dade County permanently left the area in Andrew’s wake.”

This unprecedented disaster especially took a toll on the Miami-Dade County area. The massive devastation after Andrew is actually the reason that, since 2002, we’ve had a statewide Florida Building Code (FBC) in effect.

Can you believe that we didn’t have one before this? Prior to the FBC, there were still codes, but it was a hodge-podge of various different rules that the hundreds of jurisdictions statewide implemented and enforced, often inconsistently.

Today, Miami-Dade (and now Broward) Counties are considered the HVHZ (High-Velocity Hurricane Zone). They have the absolute highest requirements in the state for home hurricane protections– and actually, the nation. 

But areas outside of the HVHZ can still have a high risk of wind damage, so The Florida Building Code requires features such as “hurricane windows” (i.e., opening protection) in some other areas of Florida, but not all. 

So you see, determining which and even if you need hurricane windows in Florida can get pretty technical. Let us simplify it for you by breaking down what you actually need to know!

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

What is Opening Protection?

hurricane-windows-in-florida

You may hear your home inspector mention “opening protection” for your home. This refers to any entry into your home that we consider an opening– typically doors, windows, garage doors, skylights, glass blocks, etc.

Opening protection means your doors and windows have a barrier that has been tested against debris impact and pressure in case of a hurricane. So, hurricane windows and hurricane shutters both fall under the umbrella of opening protection. 

Other aspects of opening protection include:

  1. Hurricane shutters
  2. Hurricane windows
  3. Impact windows
  4. Window/door boards, panels, and fabrics

It’s also worth noting that regulations and code requirements for each of these materials differ from county to county, and sometimes in different areas of the same county.

For instance, in Polk county, they don’t require opening protection whatsoever. But in Pinellas County, you definitely do! Plus, nearly all areas within 1-mile of the coast require it statewide. We call this the WBDR (Wind-Borne Debris Region), which the smaller HVHZ (i.e., Miami-Dade/Broward) sits within. 

Here’s a great map from SoFlo Impact Windows that demonstrates which counties in Florida are in WBDR and HVHZ areas that require higher-grade impact hurricane windows:

florida-HVHZ-areas

RELATED: HOME INSURANCE IN FLORIDA: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Code Compliance

Home inspectors like us who also perform Wind Mitigation Inspections can investigate these aspects of your home. While we don’t perform code inspections, we can prepare a report for your insurance company that may help you qualify for discounts. 

The Florida Building Code is updated every 3-years. This includes the boundaries of the WBDR, which has expanded over time. We are currently on the 7th Edition as of January 2021. 

However, the wind mitigation report is valid for up to five years. Because of this, you should also have a new wind mitigation inspection performed and submitted to your homeowners’ insurance company every five years. 

During this inspection, we determine the weakest form of wind-borne debris protection of each opening. 

The levels of protection from strongest to weakest are:

  • Verified Materials: There should be proof on your home’s openings via a sticker, label, or imprint on the product itself. These can qualify you for higher insurance discounts.
  • Non-Verified Opening Protection products: We can usually tell when you have hurricane-resistant windows or openings, but if there isn’t verified proof, your Wind Mitigation Inspection must select this lower level of opening protection. 
  • No Windborne Debris Protection: This means that your home’s windows, for example, do not have any opening protection whatsoever. 

While the Florida Building Code can specify the required opening protection in your area, you typically do not have to install these features unless building new or performing a replacement. Understanding what’s required and where can be a real challenge. Therefore, we always recommend first contacting your local jurisdiction’s building department for the most accurate requirements at your specific address, before having any work performed.

RELATED: SUMMER HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS

Hurricane Window Ratings

hurricane-windows

We always get people asking about ratings when they inquire about their hurricane windows in Florida. But what they’re really asking — in a technical sense — is if the windows have approval ratings for both:

1.) Impact (i.e., large or small missile), and

 2.) Cyclic (i.e., pressure ratings).

Items that are verified as both Impact and Cyclic rated will have gone through independent testing proving their performance. They’ll have either a “Product Approval Number (i.e. FL#),” or a “Notice of Acceptance (NOA)” assigned to them. As mentioned above, this can be verified on the product with a sticker or imprint. The State of Florida provides the Florida Product Approval Number, while Miami-Dade County issues their similar NOA (Notice of Acceptance) to prove these products are “verified.”

It’s important to know that while some items are impact/cyclic verified for the WBDR, they are still not necessarily HVHZ approved. 

Before shopping for hurricane windows for your Florida home, you can search these online databases where you can find product approvals/acceptance yourself. But we still also recommend contacting your local building department, too. In construction speak, we call them the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction).

Also, while the windows and doors themselves can be rated, some specific boards, panels, shutters, or fabrics can also be verified as rated opening protections, and are usually a more affordable option.

If your home is in an HVHZ area, you may even choose to install shutters over your already resilient hurricane windows for double-layer protection during hurricane season.

RELATED: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?

How Much Do Hurricane Windows Cost?

hurricane-windows-in-florida

You’ll never be able to get a straightforward answer when determining how much hurricane windows cost. Location, materials, window size, and experience of your hurricane window installer all play a role in the pricing structure.

To give you an estimate, you can expect to pay about $62 per square foot for your hurricane windows.

RELATED: WHAT IS A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION?

Hurricane Windows vs. Impact Windows Cost

There is no difference between hurricane and impact windows. As we hinted earlier, calling them hurricane windows is really a simple, generalized term. Because these windows are both impact and cyclic tested, you should know that they’ll cost more. According to Home Advisor, the average impact hurricane window will cost between $2,679-14,151.

how-much-do-hurricane-windows-cost-home-advisor

That’s a huge difference, right?

Our advice if you’re already a homeowner is to call your local building official. They’ll be able to tell you what opening protection you specifically need in your area (either on new builds or for replacing windows/doors). Compare these requirements to the windows/doors you already have installed. Look up the labels online for a FL# or NOA if you can. 

Maybe you already have what you need. Or maybe it’s time to shop around. Luckily, there are plenty of “hurricane window” contractors here in Florida. 

Lastly, after all is said and done, then it’s time to get a new wind mitigation inspection performed, which may improve the discounts on your homeowners’ insurance. 

Is it time for your wind mitigation inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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Why Your Home Inspector Mentions Window Screen Replacement and How To DIY It

A window screen replacement can be a pain in the butt. And in all honestly, it’s usually one of those things we ignore. After all, we still have our window to protect us from the Florida weather, right?

Well, not exactly. 

If you’re buying a home in Florida, your home inspection report will bring up damaged or missing window screens.

Why the heck would we do that? We’re glad you asked!

RELATED: WHERE TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS WHEN BUYING A HOME

3 Reasons Your Home Inspector Mentions Window Screen Replacement

While Florida doesn’t technically require homeowners to replace their ripped window screens, most home inspectors still make a note of it. Unless you are a property manager, then they are required for rentals.

This process is a lot more refined than first-time homebuyers realize. Aspects of a home that you may not have thought to look at (like window screens) might be a cause for concern later down the road. 

Overlooked home discrepancies like clogged drains can cause plumbing issues, while something as simple as a dirty filter can be catastrophic to your entire AC unit. And that’s a pretty costly deal— especially here in Florida. 

Your windows serve as a primary barrier between the safety of your home and the outside world. Broken screens are a structural and health-related concern that home inspectors find relevant to the home buying process. 

Here are some other reasons why we might suggest window screen replacement. 

RELATED: OVERLOOKED BASICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTOR ALARMS

#1: To Keep Away The Mosquitos

damamged-window-screens-homeinspection

If you’ve lived in Florida long enough, you know that mosquitos are an ever-present pest. 

But did you know that, by far, mosquitos are the deadliest creature in the world?

Sure, you’re more likely to simply get an itchy bump on your arm if a mosquito bites you. However, mosquitoes carry diseases that are routinely transmitted to humans. 

According to the CDC, “West Nile virus is one of the most common mosquito-borne diseases in the continental United States.” Some other known illnesses caused by these creatures include Malaria, Yellow Fever, and Zika Virus.

Floridians are especially at risk because mosquitos are prevalent after heavy rains and hurricanes. Believe it or not, one million people die from mosquito-borne diseases every year. 

These window screens help keep you and your family safe. 

#2: Multiple Levels of Protection

window-screen-replacement

Window screens may not look like much, but they do more work than they’re given credit for. 

Besides critter protection, window screens can also expand the life of your windows. It helps prevent water from pooling along your window edges which can cause your window frame to rust.

When your window frame is damaged, it can lead to foggy windows (which will need replacing) or even excess water in your home. This water infiltration can cause mold, interior paint peeling, and other structural issues from Florida’s inclement weather. 

Window screens are also just an additive layer of protection in case something comes flying at your window!

#3: Cost For Window Screen Replacement

The total cost to DIY your window screen replacement is about $25-55. That’s assuming you only need to replace the screen and not the frame. Here’s a breakdown of everything you’ll need:

1. Aluminum or fiberglass screening $10-15

2. Spline replacement $15-20

3. Spline tool $10

4. Utility knife $10

5. Screen repair kit for small patches $3

Here’s a great video on how to repair your window screen:

To hire someone for window screen replacement, you’re looking at an average cost of about $135 per window. 

These costs aren’t something you would typically bother the seller with at negotiations. 

But when your home inspector tells you that it’s five window screens that need replacing, then it might be worth bringing up.

 

RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION

How To Replace Window Screen Frame

When just one window screen needs replacing, all you need are the tools above for a quick DIY fix. The biggest issue for window screen replacement comes when the frame is bent. Now, you have the restore the entire screen unit.

So let’s get into how to replace a window screen frame.

Step 1: How to measure for window screens

cost for window screen replacement

Measure the width of your window first. Using your tape measure, go from corner to corner. Try to get to the nearest 1/8 inch. 

To measure the window height, find the lip. This is the rubber piece at the top and bottom of your window (where your previous screen frame sat).

For double windows, you’ll want to measure from directly behind the lip, up to the window channel (the section separating the top pane from the bottom pane). Add 1/8 inch here. 

Here’s a video on how to measure for window screens of various sizes. 

Now that you know your window’s measurements, you can choose the right size pre-framed window screen.

Step 2: How to remove window screens 

window-screen-replacement

Removing window screens and their frame is pretty simple. 

Open the window and press gently on the corner of the frame. This tension helps release the rounded springs that are at the top of the frame. You may need the help of a tool for this, but the bottom half should pop out from behind the lip. Get a grip on the bottom of the screen and pull down to release the frame from the window. Side note: On some windows this should be done from the inside, so if you’re having trouble, go to the other side of the window.

You may also have tabs on the bottom of your screen. If that’s the case, lift them simultaneously, and then push the screen out. Pull down to release the top of half of the window screen frame from the window.

For tricky window screen removals, watch this video. 

Step 3: Window screen replacement

window-screens

Now that your screen is out, you can choose to replace it with a pre-framed screen that you can get at Home Depot. Or you can re-screen it yourself using the tutorial above. 

To replace your window with a pre-framed screen, align it with the top half of your window opening. Try to get those springs into place.

From there, your screen should have tabs that you can use to lower the bottom of your screen behind the lip. It should snap right into place!

Here’s a video for visual instruction. 

RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?

We hope this quick tutorial can help you DIY your window screen replacement (or get you a better deal for closing on your new home)! And remember to always ask your home inspector about the condition of your home’s windows and screens.

Speaking of, is it time for your home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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I Have Plaster Walls in My House — Now what? A Guide on How To Handle Plaster Walls

While inspecting homes across the Central Florida area, we run into various versions of this question all of the time: What’s the difference between plaster walls/ceilings and drywall? 

If you have an older home, or are considering purchasing one, you might need to learn how to handle plaster walls.

Drywall, on the other hand, is easier to deal with and probably more familiar to you. Most new homes these days are made with drywall, and you can easily find supplies at your local hardware supply store. Plus, there are plenty of drywall contractors you can call to help you out. 

You won’t be so lucky if you have plaster walls. 

RELATED: IS YOUR SUBPANEL WIRED WRONG? LET’S TALK ABOUT IMPROPER SUBPANEL BONDING

Plaster vs Drywall

plaster-walls-how-to

Learning how to spot plaster versus drywall is pretty straightforward. The short answer is that plaster is literally harder than drywall. You may also notice that plaster walls are more susceptible to cracking from building settlement or thermal expansion/contraction.

Plaster is also harder and more time-consuming to install and repair. It’s literally a rock, making for quieter and “cooler” feeling spaces. It’s a material that is generally durable and resilient to moisture, which is why it used to be popular in Florida homes. 

Plaster 101

Plaster is applied “wet” by hand troweling, often in multiple layers over a wood or metal lath, or gypsum lath boards. Thus, the thickness of plaster can be somewhat inconsistent since it is applied by hand.

It’s held on by suction, mechanical bonds such as “keys,” or a chemical bonding agent. For the uninitiated, plaster walls present challenges to securely hanging pictures or TVs on the wall (although it’s definitely possible if you learn how).

Check out our related article on HOW TO FIND A STUD IN PLASTER WALLS.

Drywall 101

On the other hand, drywall is much easier, faster, and cheaper to install and repair. Unlike the “wet” application of plaster, it is put on in dried sheets, hence the name DRYwall. It attaches to the wall studs and ceiling trusses by the use of screws or nails.

Then, the seams and fasteners are finished smooth with tape and a joint compound “mud.” It provides a “warmer” feel to a room. Like plaster, drywall offers a level of fire resistance.

Many repairs can be DIY if you have drywall vs plaster walls. And if that’s not possible, good drywall tradespersons are much easier to find than those with plastering skills.

However, drywall isn’t as sound-deadening as plaster, and it’s actually much less resilient to moisture. Just ask those in New Orleans affected by flooding from Hurricane Katrina.

 

There’s nothing “wrong” with either product. But while they serve the same intent, they are very different.

Each material has advantages and disadvantages that are important for homeowners to understand. Here’s a great video by Leah from the YouTube channel “See Jane Drill” that will help with this. She’s got the true heart of a teacher and is one of our favorites!

The History of Plaster vs Drywall

Plaster has millennia of history behind it. Literally 1000’s of years. The Babylonians, Greeks, Romans (including the Italians), and Egyptians all used plaster. So did the ancient peoples of China and India.

Suffice to say, it’s an ancient building product. Plaster has multiple varieties, textures and chemistries using diverse materials such as clay, lime, or gypsum. 

You’re probably familiar with exterior plastering, which is usually referred to as stucco. In England and some areas of the US, they call plastering “rendering” or “parge coating.”

Venetian plaster has marble dust added, while rammed earth or waddle-and-daub are more primitive plastering techniques usually created from locally sourced materials.

But at the end of the day, it’s all a form of plastering.

We won’t go into all of the details now. Although, Wikipedia has a rather comprehensive article that you can read here if you want to explore deeper.

Our focus today is on plaster in interior ceilings and walls that you may find in your home, known as “lath and plaster.”

Before we can talk about plaster finishes on walls and ceilings in homes, we want to contrast it with what you may be more familiar with in today’s modern homes- drywall.

Sheetrock® vs Drywall

what is the difference between sheetrock and drywall

Drywall is known by many names, such as gypsum board (or gyp board), plasterboard, wallboard, or the brand name Sheetrock®. So if you’re wondering what the difference between Sheetrock® and drywall is, the answer is— nothing.

It’s essentially the same thing.

In the scheme of the built environment (including houses), drywall is a relatively newer invention. The earliest form of drywall was available in the USA around the late 1800s. It was patented as “Sackett Board,” named after its inventor, Augustine Sackett.

USG Corporation purchased Sackett Board soon afterward. They made various improvements to it over the years. In 1917, they released their upgraded version under the brand name Sheetrock®.

Many people still call it Sheetrock® today, but this is specifically USG’s brand name for drywall.

(Psst…As a side note, many brand names become common household names for products. We thought this was a fun read if you want to really geek out).

 

RELATED: EXPLAINING THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN COPPER PIPE TYPES

Why Drywall is Used More in Modern Homes

drywall-vs-plaster

Drywall was not very popular at first, as it was considered a substandard, cheap, and gimmicky product. Many builders would not adopt its use. Instead, they preferred the familiar, time-tested use of lath and plaster. In the meantime, USG tried to market Sheetrock® as a fire-resistant product that required less time and labor to install but with limited success.

But then WW2 happened.

Massive labor shortages, followed by the baby boom and resulting housing boom, changed the game. The advantages of drywall became more evident, and it eventually became the dominant product by the late 1960s.

New interior plaster installs are rare today, except for the occasional installation on some custom-built, high-end residences and commercial buildings. So you’ll mainly see drywall installed inside in most modern homes.

RELATED: 5 WAYS TO REDUCE YOUR ELECTRIC BILL IN FLORIDA

So my house has plaster walls— what does that mean?

plaster-walls

Although it’s rare to find newer homes with plaster walls and ceilings, many older homes in Central Florida have lath and plaster instead of drywall.

Our personal home was built in 1967 and has plaster and metal lath walls and ceilings. It’s actually what’s known as a hybrid veneer-plaster system that uses a gypsum-based “rock lath” base layer, instead of the even older method using a scratch/base plaster coat over wood lath strips (as illustrated in the graphic above). Then, the rock lath is covered with an expanded (i.e. “diamond”) metal lath, and finally two coats of plaster.

The first plaster coat is a thick and rather rough “brown coat,” and the second one is a thinner white “finish/veneer coat” with a sanded texture (such as USG Diamond – Sanded). This final white coat is what you actually see on the walls and ceilings when standing in the room.

We love it for many reasons. Plaster is beautiful and full of character, with superior sound-deadening properties and moisture resistance versus drywall. The feel of authentic craftsmanship permeates the home.

The downside is that it’s tough to find tradespersons with the knowledge to repair it. While there may be more, we only know of one serious plaster repair company in the Tampa Bay region.

And they are always booked solid for months.

A word of caution: Plaster requires skill and patience. Many drywall contractors also claim to be able to fix plaster. But more often than not, they’ll use materials more familiar to them (i.e., drywall and joint compounds) in their work. This can lead to mixed (and sometimes pitiful) results. Don’t believe us? See what the folks over at Walls & Ceilings say about it.

Just be sure to do your research before hiring someone to repair your plaster. Make sure it is up to your standards.

If you want to attempt a DIY repair on plaster, it is possible. Here’s our favorite teacher Leah again, with some tips on how to repair plaster walls. There are also great tutorials and tips we’ve found on Old House Online, as well as from the Master of Plaster folks, and at Old Town Home.

Conclusion

We hope this helps some of you homeowners and home buyers out there understand the differences between plaster and drywall. Please don’t be afraid of plaster or deterred by it.

In our opinion, real plaster is excellent, charming, and worth preserving!

Read more about Home Improvement 

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How To Change or Replace a Light Fixture in Your Home

Since we were kids, we’ve been warned about the dangers of messing around with electrical outlets. So if you’re having some reservations about how to replace a light fixture, rest assured, it’s not just you!

There are plenty of reasons why you may need to install a new light in your house. Maybe you’re taking up an interior design project. Or maybe you don’t get enough light in a certain room in your house. 

Whatever the case may be, the first thing you need to do is make sure you have the right tools and the right instructions on how to install a light fixture. 

A word of caution: Some areas require permits to even replace a light fixture. So make sure you are aware of the rules in your area, prior to attempting any light fixture replacement project.

RELATED: IS YOUR HOME FIRE SAFE?

How To Replace a Light Fixture In 4 Easy Steps

The good news is that the steps for replacing almost any light fixture are universal. Even though your new light will come with its own instructions, the same process can be copied no matter where you’re replacing a light in your home.

Expect ceiling fans— those are a different story.

So use this as your official guide for how to install a ceiling light!

What You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver
  • New light fixture
  • Screws and Wire Connectors (these typically come with your new light)
  • Ladder
  • Wire Stripper (maybe)

 

RELATED: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GALVANIZED PIPES

Step 1: Turn Off The Lights

how-to-replace-a-light-fixture-in-4-easy-steps

No— not just the light switch. For optimal safety, we recommend going to your circuit breaker and turning off the electricity right from the source.

This can turn into a duo project, too. If your circuit breaker isn’t labeled, this is the perfect time to get that done. Just turn on the lights in your house and turn off one breaker at a time. This helps you to see which breaker turns off which lights.

As you go through, make sure to properly label them for each room. Packing tape and a magic marker work perfectly for now.

Once you find the breaker for the room you want to replace a light fixture, flip it off. Make sure to turn off the light switch in the room, too!

Step 2: Unscrew The Old Light

replace-a-light-fixture

A word of advice: if you’re replacing a ceiling light, your ladder needs to be tall enough. Working from underneath the light won’t work. You’ll need to be able to see inside the ceiling where it’s attached. 

Once you’re up there, grasp the ceiling light with your palm to keep it steady. As you begin to unscrew the light, you’ll notice it will still be attached by only the wires. 

Pro-Tip: To make your life easier, you may want to wear some type of utility belt so you can easily throw the screws somewhere so that your hands are free.

Your light may also be attached to the ceiling with caulk. If that’s the case, use your screwdriver or a utility knife to pry the material away from the ceiling. 

Now that you can see inside the electrical box, remove the connectors and untwist the wires. You can do this by hand. There may also be a screw attaching the light to the metal bracket. You’ll need to remove that with your screwdriver.

Sometimes when you replace a light fixture, the one you purchased will come with a new bracket. We recommend using that to make sure your new light fits properly. Your fixture’s instructions will have more details on the bracket.

It should be as simple as switching the old bracket, popping the new one in its place, and securing it with the provided screws. 

Hanging a Chandelier 

If you’re hanging something like a chandelier, make sure you measure how low you want it to hang first!

Here’s a great tip from the Wolberg Blog:

“A handy rule of thumb is that a chandelier should be 12 inches narrower than a table and have at least 48 inches of space from each of the room walls or edges. Hang a chandelier approximately 30 to 34 inches over a table with an 8-foot ceiling height.”

Some chandeliers can be heavy, so if it feels cumbersome consider making it a 2-person job.

 

RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

Step 3: Connect the Wires— Properly

replace-a-light-fixture

This is the part that freaks some people out. 

As we mentioned, no matter what type of light you buy or where you buy it (Home Depot, Amazon, or Wal-Mart), the instructions are going to be the same. 

Still, you should read the light manufacturer’s instructions first. On the off chance that you didn’t get them (or you lost them), here’s what they probably said:

  1. Twist the black (hot) wire to the black wire in the electric box.
  2. Connect the white (neutral) wire to the white wire in the electric box.
  3. Twist the green/copper (ground) wire to the green/copper wire in the electric box.

You can learn more about the difference between hot, ground, and neutral wires here. 

Your new wires may look frayed on the ends. This is okay, but just make sure they aren’t broken or you may have to make a new cut. From there, you just need to twist the wire to the ceiling wires and use the wire “nut” or connector to secure them in place.

Nowadays, you can depend on light manufactures to have the appropriate amount of the wire insulation (the black, white, and green/copper casings) stripped. However, if there’s not half an inch of exposed wire coming from your wires, then you’ll need to shave off some of the insulation with wire strippers. Check out the video below to see how to properly strip a wire.

NOTE: If you don’t see a green or bare copper wire coming from the ceiling, then you will usually have a metal box and see a green “grounding” screw. Be sure to wrap the green/copper wire on your new light under that green screw and tighten it. Bend the end of the grounding wire slightly into a “Shepard’s hook,” then place it under the screw, and use your screwdriver to seal it tight. The correct way to do this is make sure the direction of the wire under the screw will be in the same direction as how the screw turns, so it will tighten the wire in place as you turn the screw tighter.

 

Step 4: Close Up and Test It Out!

how-to-replace-a-light-fixture-in-4-easy-steps

Now you’re going to gently fold the wires back into the ceiling canopy and screw the new light fixture into the bracket. You may also have a decorative nut for the outside of the light that needs to be screwed on for the finishing touch.

Then, just add in your light bulb of choice and any other potential light décor (such as a light chain), and voila— you have successfully replaced a light fixture!

Go back to your breaker box and turn the circuit breaker back on. Then you can flip on the light switch and watch your handy work come to light (everybody loves a good pun, right?). 

RELATED: UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

Conclusion

We hope this helps all new (and old) homeowners easily replace a light fixture! Always be careful when you’re dealing with electrical units. If you never got a home inspection (or it’s been a few years) there’s no telling what 

Speaking of home inspections… is it time for yours? Contact us for a quote!

 

NEXT: CUT ATTIC TRUSSES 101

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Moving To Florida Checklist For Homeowners

You’re finally thinking about moving to your dream home in Florida. As much as it really IS paradise down here, there are a few things about moving to Florida that homeowners don’t expect.

Moving from one state to another is never easy. The good news is, you’ll probably get to purge a lot of your Northern belongings because there are things you simply don’t need here in the Sunshine State (like scarves).

But aside from lightening your wardrobe, is there anything else you should be aware of? We’ve met many Northerns who book it down to Florida just to escape the cold. They don’t realize that while you may not have to shovel your driveways anymore, you still have home care responsibilities that are pretty unique to Florida homeowners.

So, let this be your official Moving To Florida Guide, where we go over the pros and cons, the real estate market, and home essentials.

RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?

Moving To Florida: Pros and Cons

moving-to-florida

If you’re debating whether or not Florida should be the place you call home, then it’s natural to want to make a Pros and Cons list.

But we decided to do the brunt of the work for you!

Here’s what you need to know about moving to Florida— the good, the bad, and the ugly.

The Weather… Kind of

Florida is notorious for its year-round tropical weather. And even though right now you may laugh at the Floridians who bundle up when it’s 65 degrees, we can guarantee that this will be you in the future.

Just give it a year.

Besides this chilly weather that you’ll have to deal with 4-weeks out of the year, there’s also summertime. Summer months in Florida can get up to 90 degrees with a heat index of 103-110 degrees. It may not sound that different from what you’re used to, but there really is nothing quite like the Florida heat.

Be prepared to stay mostly indoors from June-September. When you get your home inspected, make sure the AC unit is in good condition because your electric bill will take a hit if it’s not.

The Entertainment

No matter where you are in Florida, you’ll always have something to do. Between the beaches and springs, you can experiment with just about any water activity (highly recommend tubing and kayaking, by the way).

This is also why you want to make sure you have a big enough garage or storage space in your new home. There are actually rules to follow when it comes to storing boats, jet skis, and even paddleboards in your front yard.

There’s also plenty to do for food and craft brew junkies with small mom and pop businesses on the rise. Of course, you also have theme parks and nightlife cities like Miami to really fill your entertainment needs.

A con to living in the Florida entertainment-centric cities: locals still have to pay tourist prices.

The Cost of Living

One of the biggest perks to being a Florida resident is not having state income taxes. However, there are other costs of living that are particular to Floridians. For example, your insurance rates will likely be higher than what you’re paying now. There’s also flood insurance to consider if you’re living on the coast.

Here’s more data about the cost of living in Florida.

 

RELATED: SUMMER HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

Moving To Florida Checklist

moving-to-florida-checklist

Alright, so it looks like there are more pros than cons when it comes to moving to Florida. So what’s the real first step in finding where you’ll settle down?

We usually get to work with new Florida homeowners after they’ve gone through this checklist, but here’s what we recommend based on the conversations we’ve had with our customers!

1. Check the Market

The price of a home in Orlando can be mind-blowingly different from a house in Lakeland (despite the fact they’re neighboring cities).

We know most people will only check the real estate market once they decide on a city with the best schools and entertainment. We suggest looking into those neighboring cities if you want to pay a fair price. You may want to be right next door to Disney World, but you can easily get a nicer and more family-friendly price in Altamont Springs, which is only a 45-minute drive to the parks!

Here are a few market guides about a few of our favorite Florida cities:

2. Get Pre-Approved and Find an Agent

Homes are being snatched up in literal hours. Time is of the essence in the 2021 Florida real estate market, so make it count. Once you know where you want to live, find a local agent and work on getting pre-approved. This might mean taking steps to improve your credit score, determining a down payment (20% is the norm in Florida), and saving for moving expenses.

Once you know your budget, look online to find a few choice homes and their price range. Then, it’s time to get pre-approved! Don’t even think about making a special trip down to Florida to look at houses without this letter.

When you finally have your pre-approval letter, you’ll be equipped to find your dream home and get your offer accepted.

3. Make Multiple Offers

Speaking of, if you think you’ll be moving to Florida in just a few short months, you might want to rethink your timeline.

Because the market is so competitive, your agent may suggest making offers on multiple homes. That way, if one offer gets denied, you still have a few options on the table.

4. Get an Inspection

A Florida home inspection is vital, especially if you’re new to the Sunshine State. Your home inspector will let you know:

  1. If your AC unit is in good condition (a must for those Flordia summers)
  2. The age of your roof
  3. Whether or not the home needs a new paint job (especially if its stucco)
  4. Pool/spa and irrigation conditions

Florida’s weather can really affect the condition of your home, so knowing the ins and outs of its overall condition can really save you money in the long run. Here are some questions your should ask your Florida home inspector.

5. Pack Accordingly 

If your offer is accepted and you’ve passed the home inspection stage, then congratulations— you’re officially moving to Florida!

It’s time to ditch the snow boots for flip flops and get rid of your spare snow tires. Here’s a short list of things you’ll need now that you’re moving:

  1. Flip flops
  2. Ceiling/standing fans
  3. Blackout curtains
  4. Sunpass
  5. Garage storage containers
  6. One of these things for your car
  7. Hurricane shutters

Side note: If you’re moving to Florida from New York or somewhere else where public transit is popular, you’ll definitely need a car. Our public transportation system is basically nonexistent.

More Moving To Florida Guides:

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Explaining The Differences Between Copper Pipe Types

As a homeowner, you may not have expected to find yourself learning about the different types of copper pipes— but here you are!

It’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with the components of your home. It can help prevent mistakes and unexpected costs or, at the very least, arm you with enough knowledge to navigate solutions should you run into problems (i.e., a pipe leak).

Copper pipes (also known as copper tubing) are popular in modern American homes. So, chances are good that you have copper plumbing in your house. Their primary function is to move potable water (aka your everyday drinking water). They are also commonly used in appliances such as air conditioners and refrigerators.

These pipes are sturdy, reliable, and (at least in Florida) can be expected to last nearly 70 years! However, their durability all depends on the type of pipe you have. Your location also plays an important factor because some cities have higher levels of acid in their water. The higher the acidic levels are in a given area, the quicker your pipes will corrode.

RELATED: UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

Different Types of Copper Pipes

types-of-copper-pipes-homeowners-guide

The easiest way to remember your copper pipe choices is to think of the great Dr. Martin Luther King: M.L.K. That’s because the types of copper pipe you’ll see the most often in a home are:

  • Type M
  • Type L
  • Type K

When it comes to copper, you’ll either find rigid or soft materials. The rigid copper piping can be anywhere between 10-20 feet. Soft copper is bendable, and you’ll typically see it coiled on a hardware store shelf.

So there’s a lot to consider here: do you need soft or rigid copper piping? How long does it need to be? What is it going to be used for?

As soon as you can differentiate the types of copper pipes, you’ll know which one you need to purchase (or fix). And don’t worry— it’s pretty simple! Here’s how you can determine whether you have copper pipe M vs. L vs. K.

RELATED: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GALVANIZED PIPES

Type M Copper Pipe

M copper pipes will be your thinnest option (about 0.032 inches on a 3/4″ pipe), and also the cheapest. You can usually tell which ones are Type M by the red markings on the outside. 

Because of its more delicate exterior, M copper pipes aren’t suitable for some applications. The strength and trajectory of the water may be too powerful, which means the copper is more likely to fail. However, it’s much easier to work with and is often the go-to choice in homes

for heating systems, vacuum systems, and domestic water services. Thin copper is great for interior piping because it’s the easiest to manipulate, making it a seamless option to navigate through the walls of your home.

You can find Type M in coils (soft pipes) or straight tubes (rigid pipes). They’re the most affordable option, but they also may not last as long as other types, particularly depending on the acidity of your local water supply.

RELATED: CUT ATTIC TRUSSES 101

Type L Copper Pipe

This is your medium-thickness option at around 0.045 inches for a 3/4″ inch pipe. It’s thicker than Type M but thinner than Type K copper pipes. You’ll recognize it immediately by its blue markings.

Like Type M, L pipes come in both flexible and rigid forms. Because of this and its dense exterior, you can use it for both outdoor and indoor plumbing. For outdoor use, you can use it for fire protection (e.g., sprinklers) or some HVAC systems. 

Type L copper pipes are famous for their ability to replace old water lines. Since they’re thicker than M-pipes, they won’t corrode or pit as easily, making them an ideal solution for old or leaky pipes.

With so many options, Type L copper pipes are the most popular. Plus, they won’t break the bank! They typically last longer than Type M pipes, even if you have acidic or hard water.

RELATED: WHAT IS GFCI PROTECTION  

Type K Copper Pipe

Of the common copper pipes, Type K one is the densest, with about a 0.065-inch thickness on a 3/4″ pipe. You’ll recognize it by the green markings on the outside.

These are used primarily for your main underground water lines, commercial installations, and HVACs. If you’ve seen a copper pipe on the outside of a house or building coming out of the ground, we can almost guarantee you it’s a Type K copper pipe. 

Type K’s can withstand just about anything, including heavy water pressure and even oil distribution. They can last up to 100 years, and you can even find soft K copper pipes!

Its strength and reliability make this type of pipe the most expensive, which is why they’re primarily used for commercial applications or situations where the highest durability is demanded. 

RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?

Copper DWV Pipe

And finally, we have the DWV copper pipe. You might mistake a DWV as an M pipe at first, but it is easy to spot it by its yellow markings and, usually, its size. 

DWV stands for Drain-Waste-Vent because that’s exactly what they’re used for. Modern construction prefers to use plastic P.V.C. for draining and vent systems. These are becoming more difficult to find installed in newer homes. We will see them in older homes sometimes, but often as a part of a sewage system that includes cast iron pipes.

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

How To Fix Any Copper Pipe Leak

types-of-copper-pipes

Now that you know which pipes are which, let’s talk about how to fix a simple leak. 

As you may have guessed, interior leaks are most likely going to be Type M or L. But before you run off to Home Depot for a replacement line, let’s first take a look at the warning signs and what they mean:

  • Green corrosion: This is known as “patina” and is copper’s version of rust. It’s an oxidation process and could be from water or air chemistry or simply because your pipe is older. 
  • Water: Is the water only leaking from the connection, or is water covering the entire pipe? The former means you may just need to “sweat” the tube (more on that in a sec) or use another form of repair at the connection, and the latter means you need a replacement pipe. 
  • Water stains on the wall/ceiling: Your pipe may just need soldering (i.e., “sweating”) at a connection, but it also may mean the pipe needs replacement. 

When there’s a heavy amount of green corrosion, it may be best to have your copper pipes replaced. However, if you’re simply noticing a small leak, then all you need to do is sweat (or solder) your pipes. There are also push and compression fittings available to make water-tight connections on pipes that don’t involve soldering/sweating and fire.

Here’s a great video on how to do that!

 

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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Is Your Subpanel Wired Wrong? Let’s talk about Improper Subpanel Bonding

Whether you’re a homeowner, a real estate agent, or a fellow home inspector, you need to recognize this one specific method of improper subpanel bonding. It can be dangerous and it’s just something you don’t want to mess around with. 

Here it is: Your ground and neutral wires definitely need to bond (or connect) together. But this is ONLY allowed in the main panel— never a subpanel, or anywhere else in the home.

This is a very common mistake we see in the electrical part of your inspection. Although some “professionals” have made this mistake by failing to remove the bonding screw/strap, it’s usually more a sign of amateur electrical work. 

That’s why today, we’re going to go over how to properly layout your subpanel wiring and what can happen if it’s not fixed right away.

RELATED: IS YOUR HOME FIRE SAFE?

What Are Subpanels?

neutral and ground wiring

Inspectors, you can probably sit this one out. But as a brief overview, your subpanel is one of the electrical boxes at your house (sometimes it’s in the garage). Not all homes have them, as some only have a main panel only. But if you have 2 or more panels, the one with the main “service disconnect” (i.e. shut-off) is the main panel, while any other panels are considered subpanels.

You may have also heard the main panel referred to as a service panel. This is the area where you have complete control over the power within your home.

One flick of a switch, and you can turn out all the lights. 

A subpanel has its own breaker switches, but not the main. These typically control specific rooms or appliances in your home or other buildings on your property.

RELATED: THE BASICS OF AFCI PROTECTION

Hot, Neutral and Ground Wiring— What’s The Difference?

In both of these panel boxes, there are four types of wires: 

  • Two hot wires (black or red casing)
  • One neutral wire (white casing), and  
  • One ground wire (green casing or bare metal wire – usually copper or aluminum) 

The hot wires carry the energy to a fixture (e.g. a wall plug or the stove in your house). For a 120V circuit, it will be just one hot wire. If it’s 240V (e.g. a dryer, water heater, or range/stove), then two (2) hot wires will go to those fixtures.

The neutral wires will then carry the energy (technically known as current/amperage) from those circuits back to the panel. This effectively completes the electric circuit, thus generating power. 

Congratulations, you now understand how electricity works (and with just three wires)!

So what’s the point of the fourth one— the ground wire? 

Ground Wires

bonded-subpanel-ground-wire

This one provides safety. 

Hot and neutral wires are dangerous because they’re constantly running electricity through them. When you have something like frayed wiring cords or loose wire connections, it can cause those wires and their electrical currents to get mixed up. This is what causes short circuits. 

Short circuits can emit sparks and cause fires. This is why we always recommend that you keep your appliances and electrical devices up-to-date. 

However, any potential short circuits are derailed with a ground wire because this sends all those faulty electrical currents right back to the source, or the ground.

This is why you need to separate the ground and neutral. But more on that in a second.

The main point is that the ground wire generally isn’t used at all as part of the normal circuit operation. It’s a backup (also known as a secondary or earth ground) and is only there for safety in case the neutral fails. This way, the electricity doesn’t end up energizing the body of the appliance… or a human body.

In fact, neutral wires are also called grounded conductors because they technically act as a ground as well. Consider them the primary ground. Actually, on older homes (the kind with only 2-prong outlets), there often was no additional ground.

We have come a long way!

RELATED: HOW LONG DOES A HOME INSPECTION TAKE?

Here’s What Improper Subpanel Bonding Looks Like

Your main panel and your subpanel both contain those four sets of wires. 

So here’s the difference and how you can spot novice electrical work.

Below is the anatomy of the main service panel. Code Check’s image shows how the neutral wire (white) is connected to the bus bar on the right. Further down that bus bar is a screw or strap that “bonds” it to the metal bar that leads to the left side of the panel. And on the left side of the panel, you can see the ground wires (also known as the EGC/GEC’s). This effectively bonds (or connects) the neutral and ground together in the same service enclosure. But remember, this can only happen in the main/service panel – never the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

In Code Check’s subpanel wiring diagram, you can see that those neutral wires are not bonded. This means that the neutral wires are not connected to the ground wires. They both have their own individual paths in the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

Why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel?

So, why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel? Because when we bond them together, it gives your neutral wire (the one carrying electrical currents BACK to the source) multiple pathways. 

That’s how the chassis of some equipment will become energized. The effect can be as seemingly harmless as “I touched the fridge, and it shocked me!” To far more serious matters. 

The most common issues that come from not separating ground and neutral wires in a subpanel are:

  1. Shock
  2. Corrosion
  3. Fire

subpanel-bonding

As we mentioned before, ground wires help prevent short circuits, therefore preventing things like getting a shock and house fires.

A short circuit usually happens when there are loose or frayed wires. But when there are numerous electrical faults or massive amounts of electricity coursing through these bad wires, adding a third wire to the same pathway— the ground wire— creates more risk to these events. 

Thus, the ground wire needs to have a limitless path (free of the neutral wire’s electrical currents) so that it can safely prevent short circuits.

Corrosion can happen because of improper subpanel bonding as well. This is because the excessive electrical currents (coming from the hot, neutral, and ground wires) can accelerate the rate at which metal pipes or buildings start to erode.

Check out this video for a visual!

 

RELATED: WHAT IS GFCI PROTECTION 

How To Separate Neutral and Ground in Subpanel

This is work for a qualified electrician. It’s often a simple repair, but needs to be left to the professionals.

The difference may be as simple as having a green screw or bonding strap connected in your service panel – and not having it connected in the subpanel. Sometimes we will see neutrals and ground wires terminated on the same bus bar in the subpanels as well, often when a novice adds additional circuits (such as in the garage). This is effectively bonding the ground and neutrals together. You can do this in the main panel, but never should do it in a subpanel.

Yep, separating your ground wire from the neutrals in your subpanel can be as simple as that. However, we always recommend having an experienced electrician take a look.

RELATED: ARE HOME INSPECTIONS WORTH THE COST?

 

Want us to inspect your subpanel bonding? Contact us for a quote!

How to help your credit score before house hunting

If you’re shopping for a home in this red hot market, you’re going to need to be as competitive as possible.

That means being able to make the best offer possible.

To make the best offer, you need access to the best interest rates.

How do you get the best interest rates? A great credit score.

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Post-Pandemic Spending: Be Careful of Temporary Increases

I think we can all agree that real estate prices just about everywhere are feeling a little, well, insane.

This is just one area where economy inflation is rearing its head – gas, groceries, and many other everyday items are creeping higher.

As we emerge from the pandemic there are a few big-ticket items that you might want to re-consider as supply and demand settle down.

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Lakeland/Winter-Haven Metro is the 2nd fastest growing area in the country

According to US Census data from 2019 and 2020, Polk County is one of the fastest growing metro areas in the entire country.

The New York Times broke down data from the Census and found that Lakeland-Winter Haven, FL was tied for the 2nd fastest growing metro with Boise, Idaho. No surprise that Austin, TX took the top spot.

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How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

If you want to make sure you’re paying a fair price for your investment, a home inspection is a must. The point of this in-depth home analysis is to make sure all the plumbing, electrical, mechanical, and structural aspects of your new home are in working order. If they’re not, you may have some room to negotiate your offer price, or move on to another prospective property. 

But how long does a home inspection take, and when can you expect to get the results of the report? 

RELATED: MYTHS ABOUT HOME INSPECTIONS DEBUNKED

How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

home-inspection-checklist

Since most buyers want to be present during the inspection, it’s natural to want to know how long the process takes. On average, you should expect the home inspection to take 2-2.5 hours. 

With the market the way it is right now, many buyers are opting out of a home inspection. This could turn out to be a huge mistake because you may end up eating the costs of much-needed home repairs. 

That’s why we recommend not only getting a cost-effective home inspection but also encourage you to be present so that you can ask any questions. At this time, if you choose not to come due to safety measures, you can expect the home inspection report within 24-48 hours.

We also understand how stressful a home purchase is, so if you choose to be present, know that we have your safety in mind. We require practicing social distancing and properly worn masks at all times. We’ll even have hand sanitizer handy!

Now, there are many opinions out there about how long a home inspection should take. Some say 3-4 hours, but most won’t be that long. But we have had some that have taken all day! A few factors will slow down in inspection, so keep these in mind while you’re touring the house for the first time. 

 

RELATED: TEN IMPORTANT QUESTIONS TO ASK YOUR FLORIDA HOME INSPECTOR

Things That Will Slow Down a Home Inspection

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

What can make a home inspection go from a few hours to an all-day endeavor? Well, the process is primarily based on four things: size, age, and the condition of the home play a big role. Excessive clutter and personal items in the way matter, too!

Size

So, a small condo can be as quick as an hour, while a large home can take 4-6 hours… or even more! The average size house (3BR/2BA) takes about 2-3 hours. 

Also, keep in mind that the pool/spa, wind mitigation, thermal imaging, and irrigation inspections can add to the time frame in which we complete the examination. 

Age 

With great age comes great responsibility. So we do our due diligence! Older homes tend to have more issues, so we make sure to work through the house, keeping a keen eye out for things like plumbing, electrical, roof, and mechanical discrepancies.

Clutter

If there are currently residents occupying the home, that can really slow down how long it takes. We’ve had some homes so bloated with “stuff” that it took a while just because it was tough to navigate. 

Keep in mind that home inspectors don’t move personal items, which is why a cluttered home can make the job take twice as long. 

Type of Inspection

This article is primarily about the general home inspection. However, additional inspections requested may add to the time the visit takes.

Home insurance companies require a four-point inspection for older homes 30+ years old. A four-point inspection is limited to only a few systems, so it takes about 30-45 minutes. You will also likely have a wind mitigation inspection performed, which could result in discounts on your insurance. This inspection also takes additional steps and time to perform.

A general home inspection requires many more systems and components to be inspected. This type of inspection requires at least twice as long. When the other insurance inspections are bundled with this, it can add at least an hour.

Don’t make the mistake of skipping out on a full inspection to save time and money, though. These insurance inspections are not a substitute for a complete general home inspection. A thorough report of the condition of your prospective home can be the difference of thousands of dollars less by the time you sit at the closing table. 

 

RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION

What a Home Inspection Includes

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

The inspection time period occurs after your offer is accepted. You should have had a clause in your sales contract that says the final purchase is contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. And while no property can technically “fail” an assessment, if your inspector identifies structural and/or major system flaws (especially anything safety-related), you’ll have more information to either negotiate a more favorable price, or even walk-away. 

The seller and the buyer will come up with a mutually agreed-upon time to get this inspection done. Then, the buyer schedules the inspection, and we come out and do what we do best! The default time frame to get an inspection completed is 15-days per the contract. However, especially in a competitive market, your contract may have a shorter time allotted, so be sure to know exactly how long you have. And don’t wait to the last minute to schedule. We can often do an inspection as soon as the next day, but in busy times the schedules can fill up quickly! 

Here is our complete home inspection checklist. Once the inspection starts, you will know the state of everything from the home’s roof to the plumbing after just a few hours!

NEXT: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

 

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5 Things To Look Out For When Buying a Florida Home

So, you’re thinking about buying a Florida home. Most articles you’ll find on this topic are going to walk you through the process of finding an agent, looking into neighborhoods, and getting pre-qualified.

But before you do any of that, you need to think about the type of Florida home you want to buy (and your budget). 

Taking care of a Florida house isn’t even close to how you’ve maintained your house through the seasons in your northern home. And that’s mostly because we don’t really have traditional seasons here in Florida. 

Instead, you need to consider what the upkeep costs might be, insurance, and what you can negotiate in terms of closing costs. And, of course, location is everything when you’re buying a home in Florida.

 

RELATED: HOME INSURANCE IN FLORIDA: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Before Buying a Florida Home: Understand Our Weather

when is florida hurricane season

To be fair, we don’t even understand our weather sometimes. Just expect to have a nice cool breeze from October to May with a couple of weekends of cold fronts somewhere in between. Then from May-September, brace yourself for an almost unbearable heat— and some rain. 

Now, that heat and rain will be the primary factors you should consider when picking out your new home. It’s important to note that you’ll use your AC a lot more during the summer months, and pests can get out of hand when there’s a lot of downpours. Ah downpours, often these show up like clockwork. In fact, we have our own unofficial monsoon season (we just call it the rainy season), and it has recently been calculated to officially begin on May 25th.

Speaking of downpours, let’s talk about hurricanes. Hurricanes don’t hit us as often as people think. But when they do, it’s hard to predict how your home will weather the storm. That’s why factors such as windows, roofs, and event the type of build are going to play a pivotal role in choosing a house. 

This fickle weather means that you should make sure that the Florida house you’re looking into has its interior and exterior basis covered. 

 

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

What To Expect For The Interior of Your Florida Home

Let’s pretend you’re touring the first of many potential Florida homes. What should you ask your agent or Realtor®, and what should you keep an eye out for?

Here are some things to factor into your decision-making before purchasing a house in Florida.

1. AC

buying-a-florida-home

If the house is older, ask when the last time the AC was replaced or inspected. Older homes are inherently less efficient, and older AC systems may have a harder time keeping up with the Florida heat. 

Trust us, when buying a house here, an excellent AC system should be at the top of your list (if you want to survive the summer, anyway ;D).

2. Pests

buying-a-florida-home

Keep an eye out for common Florida pests. We’re talking ants, spiders, fleas, ticks, termites and roaches, just to name a few. 

Ants, in particular, can cause issues, especially during the rainy season. Ants called “crazy ants” are attracted to electrical currents, like the ones in your air conditioning unit. When one too many of these ants find their way into your warm, cozy AC unit, it can cause your wires to short circuit. And nobody needs that kind of stress during the summer months.

Crazy ants are common in Florida, so look over the AC to see if there’s a colony of ants swarming nearby. If so, remember to keep in mind that you may have to hire pest control after buying your Florida home. 

Termites are also a constant threat. Make sure you arrange for a Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) inspection when arranging your inspections for buying a home here. That’s a different inspection than the home inspection itself,  so the home inspector likely will not inspect for this, but it’s important not to overlook this one. Make sure to arrange a WDO inspection. Your home inspector or agent may even be able to suggest a company and arrange them for you.

Above all, it’s important to remember that although we love living here, we’re absolutely on their turf. Regular professional pest control services are a necessity you should budget for when living in Florida.

 

UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

What To Expect For The Exterior of Your Florida Home

We do things differently here in Florida, and construction is no different. We have a unique, sometimes brutal climate and weather. So the way we build our houses reflects those conditions. 

Here are three more things to think about when you’re buying a house in Florida:

3. CMU Walls

buying a home in florida

CMU stands for Concrete Masonry Unit’s. In simpler terms, it’s Concrete Block Construction. You’ll find that we build most modern Central and South Florida homes with concrete blocks walls because of the threat of hurricane impacts. Naturally, cement blocks are going to hold up against impacts in 120+ mph winds better than wooden structures. However, a good wood frame structure still has it’s merit and has more strength than you might believe if it’s engineered correctly. 

You won’t find many wood-framing homes except in the north part of the state or older homes. However, some houses in Florida combine CMUs with wood construction. Generally, concrete blocks make up the first floor, and the second story will have wood framing.

RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

4. Stucco

buying-a-florida-home

When you’re buying a home in Florida, there is one aspect that sticks out more than others:

STUCCO! Lots of stucco!

Stucco is a cement-based siding that is prevalent in across Florida homes. You’ll recognize it from the hard, textured exterior façade that most homes here have.

The problem with stucco is that, like all cement products, it is porous. If it’s not properly maintained, water can seep into the stucco and lead to issues such as mold, termites, or structural damage. Keep these things in mind when you look into buying a Florida home. The best maintenance for stucco is well maintained exterior painting. Which leads us to the final topic.

 

RELATED: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GALVANIZED PIPES

5. Painting

buying-a-florida-home

And with stucco, you also have to consider the painting of your home. Paint is the main water defense in block/stucco walls homes. 

Because it rains plenty in Florida, you’ll need to paint your home’s exterior more often. If you rub your hand on a stucco wall and it is “chalky,” it’s time to paint! You should expect to paint the exterior of the home every 5-6 years or so. If you see hairline cracks in your stucco, know that this is common and not necessarily an indication of a scary problem. In fact, some cracks are to be expected. What is critical is that they are patched and painted, to prevent moisture intrusion. This is a big part of proper home maintenance in Florida. 

NEXT: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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What is GFCI Protection  

What is GFCI protection, and why do homeowners need to know about it?

You’ll often know if your outlets have this protection from a simple glance. Nowadays, these features are commonplace, so you may not have given them a second thought. These outlets will usually have a “GFCI protected” sticker on them, or will have the Test and Reset button placed in between the outlet sockets. 

Look around your house right now. Do you notice any? How about outlets that don’t have this feature? If your outlets don’t have the buttons, that doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t have the protection.

Only the first outlet in the circuit needs it, and then all other outlets downstream will also be protected. Plus in some instances, a GFCI breaker may be installed in the panel, in lieu of being at the outlet. 

GFCI protection has only been around a few decades, so if you live in an older home, you may find that most of your outlets don’t have these square buttons where we would expect them today. This poses a dangerous risk (which we’ll tell you about in just a sec), and you should consider an electrical upgrade as soon as possible. 

Even if you do have updated outlets, it’s not uncommon for these protections to become faulty. This is why you should be testing them in your home every month. 

But don’t scroll down just yet. If you need to know how to test a GFCI outlet, then it’s very important to understand what it is, why you need it, and yes— how it works.

 

RELATED: HOME INSPECTION CHECKLIST

What is GFCI Protection  

gfci protection cost

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. In simple terms, this is just fancy electrical protection that prevents you from being shocked. That’s why NEC (National Electrical Code) requires GFCI protection for every room at a home that is close to a water source. 

As of 2021, many spaces now require GFCI protection. Back in 1971, only swimming pools and the exterior required GFCI protection. Bathrooms were added in 1975, and then garages in 1978. Hot tubs/spas were added to the list in 1981.

Later in 1987 kitchens, unfinished basements, spa bathtubs and boathouses were added. It used to be that only outlets within 6-feet of the kitchen sink needed GFCI protection, but that was later expanded to include outlets serving all countertop surfaces.

Outlets under the kitchen sink generally still do not need GFCI protection, however.

1990 saw the addition of crawlspaces and in 1993, wet bars were added. Things remain unchanged until 2005 when laundry outlets were added to the requirement.

Today, nearly all outlets near swimming pool areas, the exterior, kitchens, crawl spaces, garages, boathouses, basements, and laundry areas should be equipped with this protection.

Essentially, a ground fault circuit interrupters must be used for all of the following except:

  • Fixed electric snow melting equipment
  • Receptacles that are not readily accessible (such as under the kitchen sink, although we still recommend it).
  • Some Receptacles tied to an outdoor dedicated branch circuit (e.g., a sump pump)

The NEC updates their requirements every three years. The electrical section of the Florida Building Code (FBC) is based on the NEC, so be mindful of that if you’re a homeowner.

Also, keep in mind that your local building department may have additional requirements. We always recommend checking with your local building department for the most current and accurate code information.

What Does It Do?

Have you ever been afraid of getting shocked while plugging in a hairdryer or maybe a toaster? GFCI protection directly addresses these concerns. 

Pretty much what it can do is sense a change in electrical currents that prompts the outlet to switch off immediately. Maybe you have you’re reading your Kindle in the bathtub, but you have it charging in a nearby outlet. To save you from potentially shocking yourself should you drop it in the water, the GFCI will turn itself off in about 20-30 milliseconds. 

125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp receptacles

What’s the Difference Between GFCI vs. GFI

Absolutely nothing. We sometimes use GFCI and GFI (ground fault interrupters) interchangeably, but they are the same device. 

GFCI vs. AFCI

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI’s) are even more modern than GFCI. They came into homes around 1999, and they look similar to GFCIs, with the same test and reset buttons. 

The main difference between these two is that GFCI’s protect you from an electrical shock, whereas AFCI protects your house from potential fires caused by arcing & sparking. 

GFCI’s keep control of ground faults while AFCI interrupts “arcing faults” that usually come from bad wiring.

Ground faults can cause bodily harm, whereas bad wiring (such as arc faults) are responsible for starting more than 28,000 home fires, according to The Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI).

 

RELATED: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

How To Install a GFCI Outlet 

what-is-gfci-protection

Can you install a GFCI outlet on your own? Most of the time— yes. If any of these outlets stop working in your home, it’s crucial to replace them right away.

Especially if the faulty outlet is in a wet location such as a bathroom or kitchen. But if you have any doubts or discomfort working with electricity, an electrician really should perform this work.

 

Here’s a quick breakdown of how to install a GFCI outlet:

Step 1: Turn off the circuit breaker. 

Step 2: Remove the outlet cover and the switch with a screwdriver (Pro-Tip: test the outlet with an electrical outlet testing tool to make sure it is completely off and no currents are flowing through the wires)

Step 3: Disconnect the “hot wire” with (right side, black wire, brass screw)

Step 4: Disconnect the neutral wire (left side, white wire, silver screw)

Step 5: Disconnect the grounding wire (green or tan insulation and screw) 

Step 6: Replace the outlet with GFCI, making sure to follow the instructions on the package and use the appropriate screws for each wire.

If you have fewer than 2 wires or more than 3 in your old outlet, call an electrician as these outlets will require a few extra steps. 

 

RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

GFCI Protection Cost

Ground-fault circuit interrupters

A standard GFCI outlet costs anywhere from $15 to $50 at your local hardware store. You’ll need to know the amp and voltage of each outlet you are replacing before going the DIY route.

Ground-fault circuit interrupters absolutely need to be installed by an electrician when there is anything more or less than three wires. We also don’t recommend installing these yourself if you have little home improvement experience (there’s still the risk of being shocked, after all!).

If you hire an electrician for your GFCI protection, the average cost to replace a single outlet with a licensed professional is about $120 per receptacle. 

 

RELATED: OVERLOOKED BASICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTOR ALARMS

How To Test GFCI Outlet

GFCI protection outlet

You should be testing your GFCI protection outlet every single month. 

Here’s how it’s done:

Step 1: Plug a lamp, phone charger, or some other small electrical device into your outlet

Step 2: Press the “Test” button. If you hear a clicking sound, this indicates the circuit has tripped, and the lamp or phone should turn off.  

Step 3: Press the “Reset” button (it should have popped out when you hit “Test”). If the lamp or phone turns back on, then your GFCI protector is working just fine! If not, try these next steps:

 

NEXT: UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

 

What To Do When Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Won’t Reset

If your GFCI button won’t push in, the solution may be as simple as pushing it harder to reach the unit. If still it doesn’t reset, there may be another GFCI on the same circuit keeping you from being able to reset it.

More than one on a circuit can sometimes be finicky. So go ahead and trip that second one, and then try to reset the first one.

Lastly, head to the service panel to see if you need to reset the circuit breaker. If all else fails, you probably either have a faulty GFCI or even a true ground-fault condition. In this case, further repairs are needed so you should call a qualified electrician.

 

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