What a Thermal Imaging Home Inspection Can Reveal That the Naked Eye Misses

When buying or maintaining a home in Central Florida, what you can see is only part of the story. Behind your walls, above your ceilings, and beneath your floors, a whole world of potential problems can be quietly brewing. A thermal imaging home inspection gives homeowners and buyers a powerful advantage: the ability to detect issues that are completely invisible during a standard visual inspection. If you have ever wondered whether your home is hiding moisture damage, energy loss, or dangerous electrical hot spots, infrared technology may be the most important tool you have never heard of.

How Thermal Imaging Works

Thermal imaging uses a FLIR infrared camera to detect differences in surface temperature across a home. Every material in your home emits heat at a slightly different rate. When something is wrong, like water saturating insulation or an overloaded circuit breaker generating excess heat, the thermal signature it produces stands out clearly on the camera’s display. The result is a color-coded image that shows temperature variations in real time. Cold, wet areas appear in blues and purples. Electrical hot spots glow in yellows and reds. To the trained eye of a certified inspector, these images are enormously telling.

What a Thermal Imaging Home Inspection Can Find

This is where infrared technology really earns its place. A thermal imaging home inspection can detect a wide range of issues that a standard inspection simply cannot.

  • Moisture and water intrusion are among the most common and costly problems Florida homeowners face. Roof leaks, plumbing leaks behind walls, and water seeping in through the foundation can cause structural damage and mold growth long before a single stain appears on your ceiling or walls. Infrared imaging picks up the temperature contrast created by wet materials and can pinpoint the source with impressive accuracy.
  • Energy loss and insulation gaps are another major finding. Florida homeowners pay some of the highest cooling bills in the country, and a poorly insulated home is a big reason why. Thermal imaging reveals exactly where conditioned air is escaping and where outdoor heat is getting in. Missing insulation in attic spaces, gaps around windows and doors, and poorly sealed penetrations all show up clearly.
  • Electrical hot spots are a serious safety concern that thermal imaging catches before they become hazards. Overloaded circuits, loose connections, and failing breakers generate excess heat that is completely undetectable during a normal inspection. These are the kinds of issues that can lead to electrical fires, so finding them early matters enormously.
  • Roof and ceiling issues can also be identified using infrared cameras, particularly after rain. Water that has infiltrated your roofing system tends to hold heat longer than dry materials, making even small leaks visible to an infrared lens.
  • HVAC inefficiencies are another area where thermal imaging provides real insight. Ducts that are leaking conditioned air into your attic instead of into your living spaces will show up clearly, pointing the way toward energy savings.

Is Thermal Imaging Part of Every Home Inspection?

Not necessarily. Many standard home inspections do not include thermal imaging by default, because it requires specialized, expensive equipment and additional training to interpret the results accurately. At Whitt Inspections, thermal imaging is available as part of a comprehensive inspection approach for homeowners who want the most thorough picture possible of their property’s condition. For Florida buyers especially, given the state’s humidity, age of housing stock, and intense storm seasons, the extra layer of insight is well worth considering.

Who Benefits Most From a Thermal Imaging Home Inspection?

Any homeowner or buyer can benefit, but a few situations make it particularly valuable. If you are purchasing a home that is more than 15 to 20 years old, thermal imaging is a smart add-on. Older homes are far more likely to have hidden moisture damage, aging electrical systems, and deteriorating insulation. Similarly, if a home has recently had roof work, plumbing repairs, or storm damage, infrared imaging can confirm whether the repairs were done correctly and completely.

Homeowners who have noticed unusually high electric bills, musty odors, or warm spots on their walls should also consider requesting a thermal imaging inspection. These symptoms often point to problems that are much easier and cheaper to fix when caught early.

Frequently Asked Questions About Thermal Imaging Home Inspections

What is thermal imaging in a home inspection? Thermal imaging in a home inspection uses an infrared camera to detect temperature differences across surfaces in your home. This allows an inspector to identify hidden issues like moisture intrusion, insulation gaps, and electrical hot spots that are not visible to the naked eye.

Does thermal imaging detect mold? Thermal imaging does not detect mold directly, but it detects moisture, which is the primary condition that leads to mold growth. By identifying wet areas behind walls or in ceilings, a thermal imaging home inspection helps homeowners address moisture problems before mold has a chance to develop.

How long does a thermal imaging inspection take? Thermal imaging is typically performed alongside a standard home inspection. It adds some time to the process depending on the size of the home and the number of areas being scanned, but it does not usually require a separate visit.

Is thermal imaging worth the extra cost? For most Florida homeowners and buyers, yes. Identifying a hidden roof leak, an electrical hot spot, or a significant insulation gap early can save thousands of dollars in repairs and prevent far more serious problems down the road. The cost of the inspection is minor compared to the potential savings.

Can thermal imaging see through walls? Thermal imaging does not see through walls in the way X-ray technology works. Instead, it detects the heat signatures on the surface of walls that are caused by conditions behind them, such as moisture or electrical heat. The result is highly accurate, but it is a surface reading, not a view through solid material.

Do I need thermal imaging if I am buying a new construction home? Even new construction homes can benefit from thermal imaging. Construction defects like improperly installed insulation, air sealing failures, and plumbing leaks are not unheard of, and catching them before your warranty period expires can save you significant trouble.

Ready to see what your home might be hiding? Whitt Inspections offers thermal imaging as part of a thorough, detail-oriented inspection process built for Central Florida homeowners. Schedule your inspection today and get the full picture.

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Irrigation Inspections: Why They Matter for Homeowners and Your Landscape

If you have an irrigation system or are planning to install one, you may have heard the term irrigation inspections and wondered what they involve. An irrigation inspection is a focused evaluation of your sprinkler system, designed to make sure everything is working properly, efficiently, and without hidden issues that could lead to waste or damage. Whether you are preparing a landscape for seasonal changes or trying to reduce your utility bill, understanding how irrigation inspections work can help you protect your investment and keep your yard healthy.

Understanding Irrigation Inspections

An irrigation inspection looks at the key components of your sprinkler system to confirm they are functioning as intended. These inspections are often recommended when buying or selling a home, installing a new system, or preparing for seasonal maintenance. They help prevent costly repairs and water waste by identifying problems early.

Unlike general home inspections that may glance at exterior systems, irrigation inspections are focused strictly on your sprinkler system’s performance and condition. From the control valves to the sprinkler heads and backflow devices, an irrigation inspection examines how the entire network operates together.

Why Homeowners Should Consider Irrigation Inspections

Irrigation systems are valuable, but they can be complex. Leaks, clogs, worn parts, and improper pressure can all reduce system efficiency and lead to higher water bills or damage to your lawn and garden. Insurance companies generally do not require irrigation inspections, but for homeowners, the benefits go beyond risk management.

Having a system professionally evaluated gives you peace of mind. It ensures that your sprinklers apply water evenly, that there are no hidden leaks eating away at your budget, and that the irrigation is set up to protect your landscaping investment. Detecting issues early can extend the lifespan of your system and avoid emergency repairs in peak watering seasons.

What Systems Are Covered in Irrigation Inspections

Irrigation inspections look at several components of your sprinkler system. These include the controller (or timer), valves, backflow preventer, water lines, sprinkler heads, and drip systems when present.

A key part of the inspection is verifying that the controller is programmed correctly and responding as it should. This ensures zones activate as expected and that timers match your landscape’s needs for efficient watering.

Valves and backflow preventers are checked for proper operation. Backflow devices are especially important because they prevent irrigation water from contaminating your home’s potable water supply — a safety concern as well as a code requirement.

The inspector also looks at water lines and pipe connections for leaks, breaks, or damage. Sprinkler heads are checked for damage, correct spray patterns, and proper alignment to avoid watering sidewalks or driveways instead of the lawn.

How These Inspections Differ From Other Inspections

An irrigation inspection is not the same as a full home inspection or a plumbing inspection. While a home inspection may briefly observe the presence of an irrigation system, it doesn’t evaluate every component for performance or efficiency. A plumbing inspection focuses on inside water lines and fixtures, whereas an irrigation inspection is dedicated to your outdoor watering system and its unique pressures and controls.

This dedicated focus allows irrigation inspectors to use specialized knowledge and techniques to find issues that a more general inspection might miss. It also means the report will be formatted specifically to document system health and any recommended repairs.

Preparing Your Home

Preparation for an irrigation inspection is minimal but helpful. Make sure the controller is accessible and that zones can be activated during the inspection. If your system has been winterized, arrangements can be made to restore water and enable testing.

Clearing tall grass or obstacles around sprinkler heads helps the inspector see them clearly. Providing access to the backflow preventer and any irrigation shut‑off valves also makes the process quicker and more accurate.

Common Outcomes After Irrigation Inspections

After an irrigation inspection, homeowners usually receive a detailed assessment of system performance and any issues found. The inspector may note leaks, misaligned heads, pressure irregularities, or components near the end of their useful life.

These findings can serve as a roadmap for repairs or upgrades. Addressing issues like leaks and improper spray patterns not only improves lawn health but can significantly reduce water usage and lower monthly utility costs.

For buyers and sellers, an irrigation inspection report can support negotiation and help avoid surprises after closing. For homeowners keeping their system long‑term, it provides clarity and a maintenance plan to prolong system life.

FAQs About Irrigation Inspections

What triggers the need for an irrigation inspection?
Irrigation inspections are typically beneficial during home sales, after installation, or before seasonal changes in watering needs. They are also recommended if you notice uneven watering, soggy spots, or high water bills.

How long does an irrigation inspection take?
Most irrigation inspections take between 45 and 90 minutes, depending on system size and accessibility.

Can a homeowner fail an irrigation inspection?
There is no pass or fail, but significant deficiencies may be noted, and repairs or adjustments may be recommended to improve performance and efficiency.

Do irrigation inspections include testing water pressure?
Yes. Water pressure is an important part of the evaluation because improper pressure can lead to inefficient watering and premature wear on components.

Is an irrigation inspection required by insurance?
Irrigation inspections are usually not required by homeowners’ insurance, but they are highly recommended for system performance, water conservation, and landscape health.

Irrigation inspections help homeowners protect one of their most valuable outdoor assets, their landscape and sprinkler system. By identifying issues early and ensuring efficient performance, these inspections save money, reduce waste, and provide confidence that your irrigation system is ready to perform year after year.

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Wind Mitigation Inspections: How They Benefit Homeowners and Your Insurance

If you live in a hurricane-risk area or are preparing to insure your home, wind mitigation inspections are something you’ve probably heard about — but might not totally understand. A wind mitigation inspection evaluates the specific features of your home that help it resist wind and storm damage. The goal is to document how well your home is built to withstand hurricanes and other high-wind events, and in many cases, it can directly reduce your homeowners insurance premiums and strengthen coverage confidence.

Understanding Wind Mitigation Inspections

Wind mitigation inspections are especially common in Florida and other storm-prone regions where high winds impact structures. Unlike a general home inspection or a 4 point inspection, a wind mitigation inspection focuses only on the features that protect the home from wind damage — not the overall condition of every system or component.

Insurance companies care about wind mitigation because homes that have proven structural protections are statistically less likely to suffer severe wind damage. By documenting these features, homeowners can not only meet insurance company requirements but also unlock credits and discounts that reduce the cost of coverage over time.

Why Insurance Companies Require Wind Mitigation Inspections

Insurance providers use wind mitigation inspections as a tool to evaluate risk related to windstorms and hurricanes. In states like Florida, insurers are even required by law to offer premium discounts when a certified inspection shows certain wind-resistant features. This creates a direct incentive for homeowners to have their homes evaluated and documented.

For homeowners, that means a wind mitigation inspection report can help secure better coverage terms and potentially significant savings. In some cases, policies won’t be issued or renewed without this documentation — especially in high-risk hurricane zones where standard risk assessments may otherwise flag the home as a higher liability.

What Systems Are Covered

Wind mitigation inspections look at specific structural aspects of a home that help it resist wind forces. These can include how the roof is attached to the walls, the shape of the roof, the presence of impact-rated openings, and any secondary water resistance barriers installed.

Roof-to-wall attachment is a key element. This refers to how securely the roof is fastened to the rest of the structure: clips, hurricane straps, or other reinforced connections can significantly improve wind resistance.

The roof shape itself also matters. Hip roofs, which have sloped sides on all edges, tend to perform better in high winds compared to gable roofs because they distribute forces more evenly and are less likely to create uplift points.

Opening protections, such as impact-rated windows, hurricane shutters, and reinforced garage doors, are another focus. These features help prevent windborne debris from entering the home and creating internal pressures that drive structural failure.

Secondary water resistance systems, additional waterproofing barriers beneath roof coverings, are also evaluated when present. These help reduce water intrusion in the event of shingle loss during storms.

How Wind Mitigation Inspections Differ From Other Home Inspections

A wind mitigation inspection is not a full home inspection. It does not assess the condition of your electrical, plumbing, or HVAC systems like a 4 point inspection does. Instead, wind mitigation is laser-focused on wind-resilience features and how well they are built to protect the home.

Because of this focus, the report generated from a wind mitigation inspection follows a specific format that many insurers require — in Florida, for example, the official form used is the OIR-B1-1802, which insurers use to calculate applicable credits.

Preparing Your Home

Preparation for a wind mitigation inspection often begins with understanding what the inspector will be evaluating. Making sure that roof access is available, pulling documentation on storm-resistant upgrades you’ve already made, or ensuring impact-rated openings are documented can help streamline the process.

Unlike general home repairs, wind mitigation readiness is more about structural documentation than fixing visible defects. If your home already has reinforced features, you can make sure you provide the inspector with any permits, product stickers, or installation records to support their evaluation.

Common Outcomes After Wind Mitigation Inspections

After a wind mitigation inspection, homeowners typically receive a detailed report outlining the wind-resistant features found and any categories that did not qualify for credits. This report is used by insurance companies to apply discounts to your policy or determine if coverage requirements are met.

A successful inspection with several qualifying features can result in meaningful savings — some homeowners see double-digit reductions in their wind portion of insurance premiums. Even if not all features qualify, the report can serve as a roadmap to future upgrades that improve both safety and cost savings.

FAQs About Wind Mitigation Inspections

What age homes typically need wind mitigation inspections?
While wind mitigation inspections are valuable for any home exposed to high winds, many insurance companies request them when issuing or renewing policies, especially in hurricane-prone states like Florida.

How long does a wind mitigation inspection take?
Most wind mitigation inspections take 30 to 60 minutes, depending on roof access and home size.

Can a homeowner fail a wind mitigation inspection?
There is no “pass or fail,” but the report may show that certain features do not qualify for credits. Homes without qualifying features simply won’t receive the associated insurance discounts.

Do wind mitigation inspections expire?
In Florida, insulation and underwriting standards accept these reports for up to five years, though some insurers may have their own validity requirements.

Is wind mitigation inspection the same as a home inspection?
No. A standard home inspection assesses overall condition, whereas a wind mitigation inspection specifically focuses on how well the home resists wind and storm forces.

Wind mitigation inspections are not just paperwork — they are a strategic way for homeowners to document resilience, improve insurance outcomes, and make their homes safer in the face of severe weather.

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How A Home Inspection Can Help When Selling Your Home

A home inspection is usually one of the final stamps in the path to selling a house. Here in Lakeland, FL, and the surrounding areas, buyers’ offers to purchase a home are traditionally contingent on the results of a home inspection. Most often, the responsibility for arranging and paying for this home inspection lies with the home buyers. However, a home inspection (before listing) can also give a home seller great information that is useful in making a fast, competitive sale.

Let Us Explain

You may remember that during COVID-19, Florida housing was HOT. The housing market in Polk County was historically competitive, with sellers getting top-dollar and buyers were acting from a place of desperation due to low inventory. Houses went under-contract within hours of being listed, or even sooner.

We saw dangerous trends with some buyers submitting purchase offers that entirely waived the home inspection contingency! We truly do understand the concern and powerful emotions behind this. However, most experts do not recommend that buyers waive their inspection, and neither do we. Logic should take precedence here. Today we’ve heard the stories of buyers’ remorse, where they wish they had been a little more careful despite the circumstances of the day. Fortunately, this unusual trend has generally passed, and markets have regained some normalcy.

As a seller, you may actually relish the idea of buyers waiving their home inspection. Surely it’s a natural instinct, but we recommend some pause and reflection. Put simply, home inspections reveal defects with the dwelling. When homebuyers waive their home inspection, there is a higher chance that expensive repairs or even dangerous conditions may not be discovered until it’s too late. That can be a risk for both buyers and sellers. 

Gain a Negotiating Edge

It is the prepared seller who is equipped with a recent, independent home inspection report that can help assuage some of these fears, despite the market zeitgeist of the day. If you want to make repairs to your property before listing it to sell, this home inspection report can also help tell you where to start. Even if you are not looking to repair issues, at least knowing them – and then researching how much they cost to fix – can give you an edge in future negotiations. This is good for everyone, and can help sellers make a faster, more competitive sale.

Avoid Surprises

A home inspection is an opportunity to uncover any defects at the home. When you as a seller in Lakeland get this done before listing your home, we call this a “pre-listing” home inspection. The home inspector has a long list of things to check to identify issues. The approach for the professional is generally the same, and they will examine the home’s major systems, structure, exterior, and interior, and provide a written report showing the findings.

For a seller, this makes you aware of any issues that need to be fixed prior to selling the house, and you can avoid any surprises that may arise in the buyers inspection process. After all, you want to show up to the table in a strong and confident position!

Many people believe their house is perfect. However, in reality, years of familiarity, memories, and sentimental notions inevitably create those rosy-colored glasses which tend to conceal the true picture. Even the nicest, best kept homes likely have a few defects (and new ones too!). You’re absolutely better equipped when you are already aware. What you don’t want are surprises because they can put you at a disadvantage when negotiating. 

Defects Are Inescapable

Keep in mind that what you don’t repair, you are legally obligated to disclose to the buyer, even in “as-is” contracts. Some people believe they’re better off if they don’t know what defects are present, thinking that “ignorance is bliss.” This is a true folly, and here’s why: The defects are inescapable.

The buyer’s inspector will find it, and now you’re at a disadvantage. Although you may not have to make repairs, the buyer can still request them, or choose to cancel the contract and walk away if they find the property unacceptable. Once you know why they cancelled, you are now aware of the issues and must disclose them to the next buyer. All you did is waste precious time and effort. You weren’t as savvy as imagined. You didn’t achieve anything. Trust us here – knowledge is power.

You Have Options

  • Make necessary repairs on your own schedule.
  • Disclose the issues upfront to the buyer.
  • Negotiate repair costs with the help of your agent.

If issues are found during your pre-listing home inspection, you can choose to make any necessary repairs on your own schedule or you can disclose them upfront to the buyer. If you choose to disclose the issues, this can help prevent the buyer from demanding you make the repairs later. 

Perhaps you aren’t equipped to deal with repairs, and this can be negotiated with the help of your agent. Plus, it helps add confidence when you decide on the listing pricing. Being equipped with the right information in advance is powerful, and when you’re fully-informed you can help prevent surprises when it’s least convenient…at the negotiating table.

Compare Reports

Thankfully, the traditional approach isn’t going away. Most buyers will still have their own inspection performed during the buying process. This is good for the general public at large. When sellers choose to do their own home inspection before selling, they may be able to compare their inspection report to that of the buyer. While the inspection reports will likely not be an exact match, it’s a good idea to look for any major differences that could end up costing you big.

Contact Whitt Inspections, LLC to Schedule Your Home Inspection

Getting a home inspection before listing your house for sale can save you time, money, and hassle during the selling process. This applies no matter what the competitive market trends are. It can also help speed up the buying process and make for a smoother transaction. At Whitt Inspections, LLC, we proudly offer professional inspection services and will deliver an unbiased home inspection report that helps prepare everyone for success. If you’re ready for the next steps, or want to know more, give us a call or schedule today!

Four Point Vs. Full Home Inspection

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Certified Home Inspection for Single-Stranded Aluminum Branch-Circuit Wiring & Its Risks

If your home was built in the 1960s or 1970s, a certified home inspection of its electrical wiring is extremely important to ensure it is safe for you and your family. During this period, due to copper shortages because of the Vietnam War, many homes’ branch-circuit wirings were made with single-strand aluminum. This substituted material has been identified as a fire-danger to homes due to aluminum’s poor conductivity, compared to that of typical copper. Occasionally, we’ve even found this wiring in homes outside of this era.

As a material, aluminum expands and contracts much more than typical copper wiring, which can cause loose connections as electricity passes through, potentially resulting in a fire. In fact, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), homes that have aluminum branch-circuit wiring are 55-times more likely to have connections that are deemed fire-hazards than homes with typical copper wiring.

With a home inspection from Whitt Inspections, our inspectors are trained to identify homes with this dangerous aluminum-based wiring. A certified inspection is the best and safest way to ensure your home is safe from this fire-hazard, as without a direct, visual inspection, detection is nearly impossible. Aluminum-based wiring is prone to overheating and fire with no previous signs of issues, meaning a failure could happen at any moment with no previous indication.

Not only is aluminum much more prone to expanding and contracting, it is also more resistant to electrical flow than its copper counterpart, which means it requires larger wires to pass electricity. With homes today using more electricity, these dangerous and dated aluminum-wired circuits are more susceptible to being overloaded with greater electricity usage, potentially resulting in a fire. Aluminum wiring is also more likely to fall victim to corrosion as a result of usage and age, also posing a fire-hazard.

It’s important to note that not all aluminum wiring is considered bad, and some is still even installed on new construction today. These are mainly multi-strand aluminum wires, which are still regularly used on service and entrance conductors, as well as larger circuits in the home like the stove, water heater and HVAC systems. This is typically fine. It’s the single-strand wire variety that can be of concern. Although alloys were revised to this wiring over the years that may have somewhat improved its performance, single-strand aluminum is still a concern. Also, you may run into obstacles obtaining homeowners’ insurance. Fortunately, there are CPSC approved repairs available that can be performed by a qualified electrician, which many insurance carriers will accept. 

If your home was built in the 1960s and 1970s, a home inspection to analyze the condition and material of your electrical systems is highly-recommended to ensure the home is safe. Call today to have your home inspected and have the confidence that it is in as great condition as possible. If we do find single-strand aluminum wiring, we will let you know and recommend options a qualified electrician can perform to repair or even replace them.

For all your home inspection needs, choose Whitt Inspections. 

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What is NOT included during a Home Inspection?

A home inspection covers many vital parts of the home. The exterior, interior, roof, foundation, electrical, HVAC and plumbing systems, and permanent built-in appliances are a few general examples of what gets investigated during a standard home inspection. If you want to know more about what IS included in the home inspection, check out our article here: https://www.whittinspections.com/home-inspections/whats-included-in-a-home-inspection/

However, you’re here because you want to know what is NOT included in a standard home inspection. Put simply, since the inspection is a non-invasive, visual-only inspection, anything that can’t be realistically reached by the inspector isn’t included. Home inspectors will check hard to reach places, like crawl spaces or attics where possible, but anything that requires extreme climbing or any digging will remain unreported.

Another thing to note is if an area is blocked or inaccessible (for example if the attic has no entrance or the crawl space is covered in water or, gasp, snakes!) it will most likely not be inspected. Some specific items that aren’t investigated during a home inspection include the septic system, the chimney interior, underground pipes and the  inside of pipes.

If you want your septic system examined, then you’ll have to order a separate inspection from a qualified septic contractor. People often assume that this service is included in a standard home inspection, but the next time you’re scheduling for an inspection, don’t anticipate a report on your septic system. It wouldn’t be realistic to expect an inspector to investigate this system. The reason being, it requires a separate license in Florida, and to properly inspect a home’s septic system, digging and pumping the tank would be required. . If you’re worried about when you should have your septic system examined, we recommend to always have it done before purchase, and InterNACHI recommends that you also have it repeated annually .

Chimneys aren’t completely avoided during a home inspection, but the inside won’t be looked into thoroughly. A basic chimney inspection doesn’t require special tools as it mostly consists of an inspector doing a visual check from the fireplace and chimney.  During a standard home inspection, the home inspector will check to make sure there aren’t any obvious problems with the chimney, but they won’t perform an interior scope of the chimney and some areas cannot be seen visually from the entrance However, if you’re getting ready to sell your home then a thorough chimney inspection is recommended, for safety reasons.

Pools and hot tubs are not included in a standard home inspection. If you’re considering a home with a pool, then you’ll need to order a separate inspection. Pools have intricate systems and it takes time and experience to properly, and thoroughly, inspect them. During a pool inspection the filters, heaters, pumps, and other electrical appliances each need to be individually investigated, adding these components to a home inspection would take too much time. A standard inspection will cover plumbing and even your house’s water system, but pools and hot tubs are another matter entirely. However, we offer this service as an add-on inspection, if desired.

Other items not included in a standard general home inspection are anything that requires a specialized license, tools or laboratory testing. Some examples of this would be Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) inspections, air quality, radon, lead, asbestos and other environmental identification or testing. Home inspectors do not check refrigerant levels on the HVAC systems, and it is also beyond the scope to perform load calculations determining if your AC or electrical service is properly sized.

There are some popular TV shows that give the wrong idea about what a home inspection entails. It’s important to distinguish that these shows are for entertainment purposes only, and don’t represent reality. Home inspections are non-invasive and visual-only, meaning, we don’t remove drywall or carpet, and don’t move personal items such as furniture. These are not technically exhaustive inspections.

Having proper understanding and expectations of a home inspection is key. The home inspection is only one piece of the puzzle when doing your due diligence before buying a home. It should only be considered as supplemental to other information you may obtain in the process such as the seller’s disclosure, title company research, crime statistics, and simply viewing the property yourself. Absolutely no home is perfect, and the purchase of real estate is not without some risk.

The best way we’ve found to view a home inspection is to see us as similar to a general practitioner doctor, but for houses. If you feel bad, you may go see your general practice doctor. If they find a potential issue with your heart, then they would refer you to a cardiologist – a specialist. Maybe if your foot is swollen, they would then refer you to a podiatrist. Think of a home inspector in the same manner. We are generalists, not specialists. If we (the generalist) detect an issue with your electric panel, we would recommend further evaluation by a qualified electrician (the specialist or expert). Damaged roofing shingles? We will recommend a qualified roofer, and so forth.

Home inspections are valuable services and cover a large part of the home’s primary components, but that doesn’t mean it covers everything. A lot of time is spent going over each room in a home and by the end of the inspection you’ll have a good idea of what needs fixing or further evaluation, and what doesn’t. If your home has special components that go beyond the scope of a standard general home inspection,  then you’ll need to schedule an appointment with a qualified  specialist who’s trained in those fields.

 

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Risks of Skipping Home Inspection as a Buyer

The housing industry continues to gain traction as more people invest in new homes. While you may feel moved by the photos you see online from sellers, it can be risky if you decide to buy a home without doing a thorough home inspection. If you skip the inspection, you risk letting minor and major issues go undetected. Which means any repair costs will end up coming out of your pocket. Without a report from a home inspector, your insurance company may not cover pre-existing issues discovered after purchase. There are lenders out there who won’t even offer financing opportunities without an inspection. Here are the risks of skipping a home inspection.

Safety Issues May not Be Identified
Some homes may have safety issues, and buying such a home without a home inspection can lead to various challenges once you move in. Safety issues such as electrical hazards, potential fire outbreaks, carbon monoxide, mold, pests, and radon could lead to severe injuries or even death in your household.

Budgeting for Future Repairs becomes Challenging
Without a home inspection, you may not identify various problems that need repairs and replacement. In this case, you won’t be able to budget for future expenses. This can distract your budgeting, leading to financial hardships in the long run.

A home with repair needs can be draining, and you will have to spend most of your time and money fixing the issues. The good thing with a home inspection is that you get armed with knowledge about the current state of the home. You will know how to budget for repairs and replacements.

Buyers Fail to Get the Big Picture
Everyone wants to invest money in a home that is worth every dollar spent. However, without an inspection, you may overlook minor issues that can become a bigger nightmare in the long run. This can lead to frustrations, and you may not enjoy your home until you fix the issues. Doing a home inspection helps you identify the nitty-gritty details and make informed decisions when purchasing a home.

The Bottom Line
It is imperative to schedule a home inspection to avoid future problems with your new home. Consider working with a professional home inspector who understands every detail and can help you conduct a thorough inspection worth a bang for your buck.

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Hurricane Windows in Florida: Rating, Cost, and Protection Levels

Back in 1992, Hurricane Andrew changed the game for building houses in Florida. The damages it accrued cost about $26.5 billion and, according to the NPS, “more than 250,000 people were left homeless, 82,000 businesses were destroyed or damaged, and about 100,000 residents of south Dade County permanently left the area in Andrew’s wake.”

This unprecedented disaster especially took a toll on the Miami-Dade County area. The massive devastation after Andrew is actually the reason that, since 2002, we’ve had a statewide Florida Building Code (FBC) in effect.

Can you believe that we didn’t have one before this? Prior to the FBC, there were still codes, but it was a hodge-podge of various different rules that the hundreds of jurisdictions statewide implemented and enforced, often inconsistently.

Today, Miami-Dade (and now Broward) Counties are considered the HVHZ (High-Velocity Hurricane Zone). They have the absolute highest requirements in the state for home hurricane protections– and actually, the nation. 

But areas outside of the HVHZ can still have a high risk of wind damage, so The Florida Building Code requires features such as “hurricane windows” (i.e., opening protection) in some other areas of Florida, but not all. 

So you see, determining which and even if you need hurricane windows in Florida can get pretty technical. Let us simplify it for you by breaking down what you actually need to know!

RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION

What is Opening Protection?

hurricane-windows-in-florida

You may hear your home inspector mention “opening protection” for your home. This refers to any entry into your home that we consider an opening– typically doors, windows, garage doors, skylights, glass blocks, etc.

Opening protection means your doors and windows have a barrier that has been tested against debris impact and pressure in case of a hurricane. So, hurricane windows and hurricane shutters both fall under the umbrella of opening protection. 

Other aspects of opening protection include:

  1. Hurricane shutters
  2. Hurricane windows
  3. Impact windows
  4. Window/door boards, panels, and fabrics

It’s also worth noting that regulations and code requirements for each of these materials differ from county to county, and sometimes in different areas of the same county.

For instance, in Polk county, they don’t require opening protection whatsoever. But in Pinellas County, you definitely do! Plus, nearly all areas within 1-mile of the coast require it statewide. We call this the WBDR (Wind-Borne Debris Region), which the smaller HVHZ (i.e., Miami-Dade/Broward) sits within. 

Here’s a great map from SoFlo Impact Windows that demonstrates which counties in Florida are in WBDR and HVHZ areas that require higher-grade impact hurricane windows:

florida-HVHZ-areas

RELATED: HOME INSURANCE IN FLORIDA: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Code Compliance

Home inspectors like us who also perform Wind Mitigation Inspections can investigate these aspects of your home. While we don’t perform code inspections, we can prepare a report for your insurance company that may help you qualify for discounts. 

The Florida Building Code is updated every 3-years. This includes the boundaries of the WBDR, which has expanded over time. We are currently on the 7th Edition as of January 2021. 

However, the wind mitigation report is valid for up to five years. Because of this, you should also have a new wind mitigation inspection performed and submitted to your homeowners’ insurance company every five years. 

During this inspection, we determine the weakest form of wind-borne debris protection of each opening. 

The levels of protection from strongest to weakest are:

  • Verified Materials: There should be proof on your home’s openings via a sticker, label, or imprint on the product itself. These can qualify you for higher insurance discounts.
  • Non-Verified Opening Protection products: We can usually tell when you have hurricane-resistant windows or openings, but if there isn’t verified proof, your Wind Mitigation Inspection must select this lower level of opening protection. 
  • No Windborne Debris Protection: This means that your home’s windows, for example, do not have any opening protection whatsoever. 

While the Florida Building Code can specify the required opening protection in your area, you typically do not have to install these features unless building new or performing a replacement. Understanding what’s required and where can be a real challenge. Therefore, we always recommend first contacting your local jurisdiction’s building department for the most accurate requirements at your specific address, before having any work performed.

RELATED: SUMMER HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS

Hurricane Window Ratings

hurricane-windows

We always get people asking about ratings when they inquire about their hurricane windows in Florida. But what they’re really asking — in a technical sense — is if the windows have approval ratings for both:

1.) Impact (i.e., large or small missile), and

 2.) Cyclic (i.e., pressure ratings).

Items that are verified as both Impact and Cyclic rated will have gone through independent testing proving their performance. They’ll have either a “Product Approval Number (i.e. FL#),” or a “Notice of Acceptance (NOA)” assigned to them. As mentioned above, this can be verified on the product with a sticker or imprint. The State of Florida provides the Florida Product Approval Number, while Miami-Dade County issues their similar NOA (Notice of Acceptance) to prove these products are “verified.”

It’s important to know that while some items are impact/cyclic verified for the WBDR, they are still not necessarily HVHZ approved. 

Before shopping for hurricane windows for your Florida home, you can search these online databases where you can find product approvals/acceptance yourself. But we still also recommend contacting your local building department, too. In construction speak, we call them the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction).

Also, while the windows and doors themselves can be rated, some specific boards, panels, shutters, or fabrics can also be verified as rated opening protections, and are usually a more affordable option.

If your home is in an HVHZ area, you may even choose to install shutters over your already resilient hurricane windows for double-layer protection during hurricane season.

RELATED: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?

How Much Do Hurricane Windows Cost?

hurricane-windows-in-florida

You’ll never be able to get a straightforward answer when determining how much hurricane windows cost. Location, materials, window size, and experience of your hurricane window installer all play a role in the pricing structure.

To give you an estimate, you can expect to pay about $62 per square foot for your hurricane windows.

RELATED: WHAT IS A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION?

Hurricane Windows vs. Impact Windows Cost

There is no difference between hurricane and impact windows. As we hinted earlier, calling them hurricane windows is really a simple, generalized term. Because these windows are both impact and cyclic tested, you should know that they’ll cost more. According to Home Advisor, the average impact hurricane window will cost between $2,679-14,151.

how-much-do-hurricane-windows-cost-home-advisor

That’s a huge difference, right?

Our advice if you’re already a homeowner is to call your local building official. They’ll be able to tell you what opening protection you specifically need in your area (either on new builds or for replacing windows/doors). Compare these requirements to the windows/doors you already have installed. Look up the labels online for a FL# or NOA if you can. 

Maybe you already have what you need. Or maybe it’s time to shop around. Luckily, there are plenty of “hurricane window” contractors here in Florida. 

Lastly, after all is said and done, then it’s time to get a new wind mitigation inspection performed, which may improve the discounts on your homeowners’ insurance. 

Is it time for your wind mitigation inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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Why Your Home Inspector Mentions Window Screen Replacement and How To DIY It

A window screen replacement can be a pain in the butt. And in all honestly, it’s usually one of those things we ignore. After all, we still have our window to protect us from the Florida weather, right?

Well, not exactly. 

If you’re buying a home in Florida, your home inspection report will bring up damaged or missing window screens.

Why the heck would we do that? We’re glad you asked!

RELATED: WHERE TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS WHEN BUYING A HOME

3 Reasons Your Home Inspector Mentions Window Screen Replacement

While Florida doesn’t technically require homeowners to replace their ripped window screens, most home inspectors still make a note of it. Unless you are a property manager, then they are required for rentals.

This process is a lot more refined than first-time homebuyers realize. Aspects of a home that you may not have thought to look at (like window screens) might be a cause for concern later down the road. 

Overlooked home discrepancies like clogged drains can cause plumbing issues, while something as simple as a dirty filter can be catastrophic to your entire AC unit. And that’s a pretty costly deal— especially here in Florida. 

Your windows serve as a primary barrier between the safety of your home and the outside world. Broken screens are a structural and health-related concern that home inspectors find relevant to the home buying process. 

Here are some other reasons why we might suggest window screen replacement. 

RELATED: OVERLOOKED BASICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTOR ALARMS

#1: To Keep Away The Mosquitos

damamged-window-screens-homeinspection

If you’ve lived in Florida long enough, you know that mosquitos are an ever-present pest. 

But did you know that, by far, mosquitos are the deadliest creature in the world?

Sure, you’re more likely to simply get an itchy bump on your arm if a mosquito bites you. However, mosquitoes carry diseases that are routinely transmitted to humans. 

According to the CDC, “West Nile virus is one of the most common mosquito-borne diseases in the continental United States.” Some other known illnesses caused by these creatures include Malaria, Yellow Fever, and Zika Virus.

Floridians are especially at risk because mosquitos are prevalent after heavy rains and hurricanes. Believe it or not, one million people die from mosquito-borne diseases every year. 

These window screens help keep you and your family safe. 

#2: Multiple Levels of Protection

window-screen-replacement

Window screens may not look like much, but they do more work than they’re given credit for. 

Besides critter protection, window screens can also expand the life of your windows. It helps prevent water from pooling along your window edges which can cause your window frame to rust.

When your window frame is damaged, it can lead to foggy windows (which will need replacing) or even excess water in your home. This water infiltration can cause mold, interior paint peeling, and other structural issues from Florida’s inclement weather. 

Window screens are also just an additive layer of protection in case something comes flying at your window!

#3: Cost For Window Screen Replacement

The total cost to DIY your window screen replacement is about $25-55. That’s assuming you only need to replace the screen and not the frame. Here’s a breakdown of everything you’ll need:

1. Aluminum or fiberglass screening $10-15

2. Spline replacement $15-20

3. Spline tool $10

4. Utility knife $10

5. Screen repair kit for small patches $3

Here’s a great video on how to repair your window screen:

To hire someone for window screen replacement, you’re looking at an average cost of about $135 per window. 

These costs aren’t something you would typically bother the seller with at negotiations. 

But when your home inspector tells you that it’s five window screens that need replacing, then it might be worth bringing up.

 

RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION

How To Replace Window Screen Frame

When just one window screen needs replacing, all you need are the tools above for a quick DIY fix. The biggest issue for window screen replacement comes when the frame is bent. Now, you have the restore the entire screen unit.

So let’s get into how to replace a window screen frame.

Step 1: How to measure for window screens

cost for window screen replacement

Measure the width of your window first. Using your tape measure, go from corner to corner. Try to get to the nearest 1/8 inch. 

To measure the window height, find the lip. This is the rubber piece at the top and bottom of your window (where your previous screen frame sat).

For double windows, you’ll want to measure from directly behind the lip, up to the window channel (the section separating the top pane from the bottom pane). Add 1/8 inch here. 

Here’s a video on how to measure for window screens of various sizes. 

Now that you know your window’s measurements, you can choose the right size pre-framed window screen.

Step 2: How to remove window screens 

window-screen-replacement

Removing window screens and their frame is pretty simple. 

Open the window and press gently on the corner of the frame. This tension helps release the rounded springs that are at the top of the frame. You may need the help of a tool for this, but the bottom half should pop out from behind the lip. Get a grip on the bottom of the screen and pull down to release the frame from the window. Side note: On some windows this should be done from the inside, so if you’re having trouble, go to the other side of the window.

You may also have tabs on the bottom of your screen. If that’s the case, lift them simultaneously, and then push the screen out. Pull down to release the top of half of the window screen frame from the window.

For tricky window screen removals, watch this video. 

Step 3: Window screen replacement

window-screens

Now that your screen is out, you can choose to replace it with a pre-framed screen that you can get at Home Depot. Or you can re-screen it yourself using the tutorial above. 

To replace your window with a pre-framed screen, align it with the top half of your window opening. Try to get those springs into place.

From there, your screen should have tabs that you can use to lower the bottom of your screen behind the lip. It should snap right into place!

Here’s a video for visual instruction. 

RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?

We hope this quick tutorial can help you DIY your window screen replacement (or get you a better deal for closing on your new home)! And remember to always ask your home inspector about the condition of your home’s windows and screens.

Speaking of, is it time for your home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

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I Have Plaster Walls in My House — Now what? A Guide on How To Handle Plaster Walls

While inspecting homes across the Central Florida area, we run into various versions of this question all of the time: What’s the difference between plaster walls/ceilings and drywall? 

If you have an older home, or are considering purchasing one, you might need to learn how to handle plaster walls.

Drywall, on the other hand, is easier to deal with and probably more familiar to you. Most new homes these days are made with drywall, and you can easily find supplies at your local hardware supply store. Plus, there are plenty of drywall contractors you can call to help you out. 

You won’t be so lucky if you have plaster walls. 

RELATED: IS YOUR SUBPANEL WIRED WRONG? LET’S TALK ABOUT IMPROPER SUBPANEL BONDING

Plaster vs Drywall

plaster-walls-how-to

Learning how to spot plaster versus drywall is pretty straightforward. The short answer is that plaster is literally harder than drywall. You may also notice that plaster walls are more susceptible to cracking from building settlement or thermal expansion/contraction.

Plaster is also harder and more time-consuming to install and repair. It’s literally a rock, making for quieter and “cooler” feeling spaces. It’s a material that is generally durable and resilient to moisture, which is why it used to be popular in Florida homes. 

Plaster 101

Plaster is applied “wet” by hand troweling, often in multiple layers over a wood or metal lath, or gypsum lath boards. Thus, the thickness of plaster can be somewhat inconsistent since it is applied by hand.

It’s held on by suction, mechanical bonds such as “keys,” or a chemical bonding agent. For the uninitiated, plaster walls present challenges to securely hanging pictures or TVs on the wall (although it’s definitely possible if you learn how).

Check out our related article on HOW TO FIND A STUD IN PLASTER WALLS.

Drywall 101

On the other hand, drywall is much easier, faster, and cheaper to install and repair. Unlike the “wet” application of plaster, it is put on in dried sheets, hence the name DRYwall. It attaches to the wall studs and ceiling trusses by the use of screws or nails.

Then, the seams and fasteners are finished smooth with tape and a joint compound “mud.” It provides a “warmer” feel to a room. Like plaster, drywall offers a level of fire resistance.

Many repairs can be DIY if you have drywall vs plaster walls. And if that’s not possible, good drywall tradespersons are much easier to find than those with plastering skills.

However, drywall isn’t as sound-deadening as plaster, and it’s actually much less resilient to moisture. Just ask those in New Orleans affected by flooding from Hurricane Katrina.

 

There’s nothing “wrong” with either product. But while they serve the same intent, they are very different.

Each material has advantages and disadvantages that are important for homeowners to understand. Here’s a great video by Leah from the YouTube channel “See Jane Drill” that will help with this. She’s got the true heart of a teacher and is one of our favorites!

The History of Plaster vs Drywall

Plaster has millennia of history behind it. Literally 1000’s of years. The Babylonians, Greeks, Romans (including the Italians), and Egyptians all used plaster. So did the ancient peoples of China and India.

Suffice to say, it’s an ancient building product. Plaster has multiple varieties, textures and chemistries using diverse materials such as clay, lime, or gypsum. 

You’re probably familiar with exterior plastering, which is usually referred to as stucco. In England and some areas of the US, they call plastering “rendering” or “parge coating.”

Venetian plaster has marble dust added, while rammed earth or waddle-and-daub are more primitive plastering techniques usually created from locally sourced materials.

But at the end of the day, it’s all a form of plastering.

We won’t go into all of the details now. Although, Wikipedia has a rather comprehensive article that you can read here if you want to explore deeper.

Our focus today is on plaster in interior ceilings and walls that you may find in your home, known as “lath and plaster.”

Before we can talk about plaster finishes on walls and ceilings in homes, we want to contrast it with what you may be more familiar with in today’s modern homes- drywall.

Sheetrock® vs Drywall

what is the difference between sheetrock and drywall

Drywall is known by many names, such as gypsum board (or gyp board), plasterboard, wallboard, or the brand name Sheetrock®. So if you’re wondering what the difference between Sheetrock® and drywall is, the answer is— nothing.

It’s essentially the same thing.

In the scheme of the built environment (including houses), drywall is a relatively newer invention. The earliest form of drywall was available in the USA around the late 1800s. It was patented as “Sackett Board,” named after its inventor, Augustine Sackett.

USG Corporation purchased Sackett Board soon afterward. They made various improvements to it over the years. In 1917, they released their upgraded version under the brand name Sheetrock®.

Many people still call it Sheetrock® today, but this is specifically USG’s brand name for drywall.

(Psst…As a side note, many brand names become common household names for products. We thought this was a fun read if you want to really geek out).

 

RELATED: EXPLAINING THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN COPPER PIPE TYPES

Why Drywall is Used More in Modern Homes

drywall-vs-plaster

Drywall was not very popular at first, as it was considered a substandard, cheap, and gimmicky product. Many builders would not adopt its use. Instead, they preferred the familiar, time-tested use of lath and plaster. In the meantime, USG tried to market Sheetrock® as a fire-resistant product that required less time and labor to install but with limited success.

But then WW2 happened.

Massive labor shortages, followed by the baby boom and resulting housing boom, changed the game. The advantages of drywall became more evident, and it eventually became the dominant product by the late 1960s.

New interior plaster installs are rare today, except for the occasional installation on some custom-built, high-end residences and commercial buildings. So you’ll mainly see drywall installed inside in most modern homes.

RELATED: 5 WAYS TO REDUCE YOUR ELECTRIC BILL IN FLORIDA

So my house has plaster walls— what does that mean?

plaster-walls

Although it’s rare to find newer homes with plaster walls and ceilings, many older homes in Central Florida have lath and plaster instead of drywall.

Our personal home was built in 1967 and has plaster and metal lath walls and ceilings. It’s actually what’s known as a hybrid veneer-plaster system that uses a gypsum-based “rock lath” base layer, instead of the even older method using a scratch/base plaster coat over wood lath strips (as illustrated in the graphic above). Then, the rock lath is covered with an expanded (i.e. “diamond”) metal lath, and finally two coats of plaster.

The first plaster coat is a thick and rather rough “brown coat,” and the second one is a thinner white “finish/veneer coat” with a sanded texture (such as USG Diamond – Sanded). This final white coat is what you actually see on the walls and ceilings when standing in the room.

We love it for many reasons. Plaster is beautiful and full of character, with superior sound-deadening properties and moisture resistance versus drywall. The feel of authentic craftsmanship permeates the home.

The downside is that it’s tough to find tradespersons with the knowledge to repair it. While there may be more, we only know of one serious plaster repair company in the Tampa Bay region.

And they are always booked solid for months.

A word of caution: Plaster requires skill and patience. Many drywall contractors also claim to be able to fix plaster. But more often than not, they’ll use materials more familiar to them (i.e., drywall and joint compounds) in their work. This can lead to mixed (and sometimes pitiful) results. Don’t believe us? See what the folks over at Walls & Ceilings say about it.

Just be sure to do your research before hiring someone to repair your plaster. Make sure it is up to your standards.

If you want to attempt a DIY repair on plaster, it is possible. Here’s our favorite teacher Leah again, with some tips on how to repair plaster walls. There are also great tutorials and tips we’ve found on Old House Online, as well as from the Master of Plaster folks, and at Old Town Home.

Conclusion

We hope this helps some of you homeowners and home buyers out there understand the differences between plaster and drywall. Please don’t be afraid of plaster or deterred by it.

In our opinion, real plaster is excellent, charming, and worth preserving!

Read more about Home Improvement 

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Is Your Subpanel Wired Wrong? Let’s talk about Improper Subpanel Bonding

Whether you’re a homeowner, a real estate agent, or a fellow home inspector, you need to recognize this one specific method of improper subpanel bonding. It can be dangerous and it’s just something you don’t want to mess around with. 

Here it is: Your ground and neutral wires definitely need to bond (or connect) together. But this is ONLY allowed in the main panel— never a subpanel, or anywhere else in the home.

This is a very common mistake we see in the electrical part of your inspection. Although some “professionals” have made this mistake by failing to remove the bonding screw/strap, it’s usually more a sign of amateur electrical work. 

That’s why today, we’re going to go over how to properly layout your subpanel wiring and what can happen if it’s not fixed right away.

RELATED: IS YOUR HOME FIRE SAFE?

What Are Subpanels?

neutral and ground wiring

Inspectors, you can probably sit this one out. But as a brief overview, your subpanel is one of the electrical boxes at your house (sometimes it’s in the garage). Not all homes have them, as some only have a main panel only. But if you have 2 or more panels, the one with the main “service disconnect” (i.e. shut-off) is the main panel, while any other panels are considered subpanels.

You may have also heard the main panel referred to as a service panel. This is the area where you have complete control over the power within your home.

One flick of a switch, and you can turn out all the lights. 

A subpanel has its own breaker switches, but not the main. These typically control specific rooms or appliances in your home or other buildings on your property.

RELATED: THE BASICS OF AFCI PROTECTION

Hot, Neutral and Ground Wiring— What’s The Difference?

In both of these panel boxes, there are four types of wires: 

  • Two hot wires (black or red casing)
  • One neutral wire (white casing), and  
  • One ground wire (green casing or bare metal wire – usually copper or aluminum) 

The hot wires carry the energy to a fixture (e.g. a wall plug or the stove in your house). For a 120V circuit, it will be just one hot wire. If it’s 240V (e.g. a dryer, water heater, or range/stove), then two (2) hot wires will go to those fixtures.

The neutral wires will then carry the energy (technically known as current/amperage) from those circuits back to the panel. This effectively completes the electric circuit, thus generating power. 

Congratulations, you now understand how electricity works (and with just three wires)!

So what’s the point of the fourth one— the ground wire? 

Ground Wires

bonded-subpanel-ground-wire

This one provides safety. 

Hot and neutral wires are dangerous because they’re constantly running electricity through them. When you have something like frayed wiring cords or loose wire connections, it can cause those wires and their electrical currents to get mixed up. This is what causes short circuits. 

Short circuits can emit sparks and cause fires. This is why we always recommend that you keep your appliances and electrical devices up-to-date. 

However, any potential short circuits are derailed with a ground wire because this sends all those faulty electrical currents right back to the source, or the ground.

This is why you need to separate the ground and neutral. But more on that in a second.

The main point is that the ground wire generally isn’t used at all as part of the normal circuit operation. It’s a backup (also known as a secondary or earth ground) and is only there for safety in case the neutral fails. This way, the electricity doesn’t end up energizing the body of the appliance… or a human body.

In fact, neutral wires are also called grounded conductors because they technically act as a ground as well. Consider them the primary ground. Actually, on older homes (the kind with only 2-prong outlets), there often was no additional ground.

We have come a long way!

RELATED: HOW LONG DOES A HOME INSPECTION TAKE?

Here’s What Improper Subpanel Bonding Looks Like

Your main panel and your subpanel both contain those four sets of wires. 

So here’s the difference and how you can spot novice electrical work.

Below is the anatomy of the main service panel. Code Check’s image shows how the neutral wire (white) is connected to the bus bar on the right. Further down that bus bar is a screw or strap that “bonds” it to the metal bar that leads to the left side of the panel. And on the left side of the panel, you can see the ground wires (also known as the EGC/GEC’s). This effectively bonds (or connects) the neutral and ground together in the same service enclosure. But remember, this can only happen in the main/service panel – never the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

In Code Check’s subpanel wiring diagram, you can see that those neutral wires are not bonded. This means that the neutral wires are not connected to the ground wires. They both have their own individual paths in the subpanel.

subpanel-bonding

Why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel?

So, why do you separate the ground and neutral in a subpanel? Because when we bond them together, it gives your neutral wire (the one carrying electrical currents BACK to the source) multiple pathways. 

That’s how the chassis of some equipment will become energized. The effect can be as seemingly harmless as “I touched the fridge, and it shocked me!” To far more serious matters. 

The most common issues that come from not separating ground and neutral wires in a subpanel are:

  1. Shock
  2. Corrosion
  3. Fire

subpanel-bonding

As we mentioned before, ground wires help prevent short circuits, therefore preventing things like getting a shock and house fires.

A short circuit usually happens when there are loose or frayed wires. But when there are numerous electrical faults or massive amounts of electricity coursing through these bad wires, adding a third wire to the same pathway— the ground wire— creates more risk to these events. 

Thus, the ground wire needs to have a limitless path (free of the neutral wire’s electrical currents) so that it can safely prevent short circuits.

Corrosion can happen because of improper subpanel bonding as well. This is because the excessive electrical currents (coming from the hot, neutral, and ground wires) can accelerate the rate at which metal pipes or buildings start to erode.

Check out this video for a visual!

 

RELATED: WHAT IS GFCI PROTECTION 

How To Separate Neutral and Ground in Subpanel

This is work for a qualified electrician. It’s often a simple repair, but needs to be left to the professionals.

The difference may be as simple as having a green screw or bonding strap connected in your service panel – and not having it connected in the subpanel. Sometimes we will see neutrals and ground wires terminated on the same bus bar in the subpanels as well, often when a novice adds additional circuits (such as in the garage). This is effectively bonding the ground and neutrals together. You can do this in the main panel, but never should do it in a subpanel.

Yep, separating your ground wire from the neutrals in your subpanel can be as simple as that. However, we always recommend having an experienced electrician take a look.

RELATED: ARE HOME INSPECTIONS WORTH THE COST?

 

Want us to inspect your subpanel bonding? Contact us for a quote!

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How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

If you want to make sure you’re paying a fair price for your investment, a home inspection is a must. The point of this in-depth home analysis is to make sure all the plumbing, electrical, mechanical, and structural aspects of your new home are in working order. If they’re not, you may have some room to negotiate your offer price, or move on to another prospective property. 

But how long does a home inspection take, and when can you expect to get the results of the report? 

RELATED: MYTHS ABOUT HOME INSPECTIONS DEBUNKED

How Long Does a Home Inspection Take?

home-inspection-checklist

Since most buyers want to be present during the inspection, it’s natural to want to know how long the process takes. On average, you should expect the home inspection to take 2-2.5 hours. 

With the market the way it is right now, many buyers are opting out of a home inspection. This could turn out to be a huge mistake because you may end up eating the costs of much-needed home repairs. 

That’s why we recommend not only getting a cost-effective home inspection but also encourage you to be present so that you can ask any questions. At this time, if you choose not to come due to safety measures, you can expect the home inspection report within 24-48 hours.

We also understand how stressful a home purchase is, so if you choose to be present, know that we have your safety in mind. We require practicing social distancing and properly worn masks at all times. We’ll even have hand sanitizer handy!

Now, there are many opinions out there about how long a home inspection should take. Some say 3-4 hours, but most won’t be that long. But we have had some that have taken all day! A few factors will slow down in inspection, so keep these in mind while you’re touring the house for the first time. 

 

RELATED: TEN IMPORTANT QUESTIONS TO ASK YOUR FLORIDA HOME INSPECTOR

Things That Will Slow Down a Home Inspection

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

What can make a home inspection go from a few hours to an all-day endeavor? Well, the process is primarily based on four things: size, age, and the condition of the home play a big role. Excessive clutter and personal items in the way matter, too!

Size

So, a small condo can be as quick as an hour, while a large home can take 4-6 hours… or even more! The average size house (3BR/2BA) takes about 2-3 hours. 

Also, keep in mind that the pool/spa, wind mitigation, thermal imaging, and irrigation inspections can add to the time frame in which we complete the examination. 

Age 

With great age comes great responsibility. So we do our due diligence! Older homes tend to have more issues, so we make sure to work through the house, keeping a keen eye out for things like plumbing, electrical, roof, and mechanical discrepancies.

Clutter

If there are currently residents occupying the home, that can really slow down how long it takes. We’ve had some homes so bloated with “stuff” that it took a while just because it was tough to navigate. 

Keep in mind that home inspectors don’t move personal items, which is why a cluttered home can make the job take twice as long. 

Type of Inspection

This article is primarily about the general home inspection. However, additional inspections requested may add to the time the visit takes.

Home insurance companies require a four-point inspection for older homes 30+ years old. A four-point inspection is limited to only a few systems, so it takes about 30-45 minutes. You will also likely have a wind mitigation inspection performed, which could result in discounts on your insurance. This inspection also takes additional steps and time to perform.

A general home inspection requires many more systems and components to be inspected. This type of inspection requires at least twice as long. When the other insurance inspections are bundled with this, it can add at least an hour.

Don’t make the mistake of skipping out on a full inspection to save time and money, though. These insurance inspections are not a substitute for a complete general home inspection. A thorough report of the condition of your prospective home can be the difference of thousands of dollars less by the time you sit at the closing table. 

 

RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION

What a Home Inspection Includes

how-long-does-a-home-inspection-take

The inspection time period occurs after your offer is accepted. You should have had a clause in your sales contract that says the final purchase is contingent on the findings of a professional home inspection. And while no property can technically “fail” an assessment, if your inspector identifies structural and/or major system flaws (especially anything safety-related), you’ll have more information to either negotiate a more favorable price, or even walk-away. 

The seller and the buyer will come up with a mutually agreed-upon time to get this inspection done. Then, the buyer schedules the inspection, and we come out and do what we do best! The default time frame to get an inspection completed is 15-days per the contract. However, especially in a competitive market, your contract may have a shorter time allotted, so be sure to know exactly how long you have. And don’t wait to the last minute to schedule. We can often do an inspection as soon as the next day, but in busy times the schedules can fill up quickly! 

Here is our complete home inspection checklist. Once the inspection starts, you will know the state of everything from the home’s roof to the plumbing after just a few hours!

NEXT: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

Ready for your Florida home inspection? Contact us for a quote!

 

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What is GFCI Protection  

What is GFCI protection, and why do homeowners need to know about it?

You’ll often know if your outlets have this protection from a simple glance. Nowadays, these features are commonplace, so you may not have given them a second thought. These outlets will usually have a “GFCI protected” sticker on them, or will have the Test and Reset button placed in between the outlet sockets. 

Look around your house right now. Do you notice any? How about outlets that don’t have this feature? If your outlets don’t have the buttons, that doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t have the protection.

Only the first outlet in the circuit needs it, and then all other outlets downstream will also be protected. Plus in some instances, a GFCI breaker may be installed in the panel, in lieu of being at the outlet. 

GFCI protection has only been around a few decades, so if you live in an older home, you may find that most of your outlets don’t have these square buttons where we would expect them today. This poses a dangerous risk (which we’ll tell you about in just a sec), and you should consider an electrical upgrade as soon as possible. 

Even if you do have updated outlets, it’s not uncommon for these protections to become faulty. This is why you should be testing them in your home every month. 

But don’t scroll down just yet. If you need to know how to test a GFCI outlet, then it’s very important to understand what it is, why you need it, and yes— how it works.

 

RELATED: HOME INSPECTION CHECKLIST

What is GFCI Protection  

gfci protection cost

GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. In simple terms, this is just fancy electrical protection that prevents you from being shocked. That’s why NEC (National Electrical Code) requires GFCI protection for every room at a home that is close to a water source. 

As of 2021, many spaces now require GFCI protection. Back in 1971, only swimming pools and the exterior required GFCI protection. Bathrooms were added in 1975, and then garages in 1978. Hot tubs/spas were added to the list in 1981.

Later in 1987 kitchens, unfinished basements, spa bathtubs and boathouses were added. It used to be that only outlets within 6-feet of the kitchen sink needed GFCI protection, but that was later expanded to include outlets serving all countertop surfaces.

Outlets under the kitchen sink generally still do not need GFCI protection, however.

1990 saw the addition of crawlspaces and in 1993, wet bars were added. Things remain unchanged until 2005 when laundry outlets were added to the requirement.

Today, nearly all outlets near swimming pool areas, the exterior, kitchens, crawl spaces, garages, boathouses, basements, and laundry areas should be equipped with this protection.

Essentially, a ground fault circuit interrupters must be used for all of the following except:

  • Fixed electric snow melting equipment
  • Receptacles that are not readily accessible (such as under the kitchen sink, although we still recommend it).
  • Some Receptacles tied to an outdoor dedicated branch circuit (e.g., a sump pump)

The NEC updates their requirements every three years. The electrical section of the Florida Building Code (FBC) is based on the NEC, so be mindful of that if you’re a homeowner.

Also, keep in mind that your local building department may have additional requirements. We always recommend checking with your local building department for the most current and accurate code information.

What Does It Do?

Have you ever been afraid of getting shocked while plugging in a hairdryer or maybe a toaster? GFCI protection directly addresses these concerns. 

Pretty much what it can do is sense a change in electrical currents that prompts the outlet to switch off immediately. Maybe you have you’re reading your Kindle in the bathtub, but you have it charging in a nearby outlet. To save you from potentially shocking yourself should you drop it in the water, the GFCI will turn itself off in about 20-30 milliseconds. 

125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp receptacles

What’s the Difference Between GFCI vs. GFI

Absolutely nothing. We sometimes use GFCI and GFI (ground fault interrupters) interchangeably, but they are the same device. 

GFCI vs. AFCI

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI’s) are even more modern than GFCI. They came into homes around 1999, and they look similar to GFCIs, with the same test and reset buttons. 

The main difference between these two is that GFCI’s protect you from an electrical shock, whereas AFCI protects your house from potential fires caused by arcing & sparking. 

GFCI’s keep control of ground faults while AFCI interrupts “arcing faults” that usually come from bad wiring.

Ground faults can cause bodily harm, whereas bad wiring (such as arc faults) are responsible for starting more than 28,000 home fires, according to The Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI).

 

RELATED: WHAT TO EXPECT FROM YOUR HOME INSPECTION – BEFORE, DURING & AFTER

How To Install a GFCI Outlet 

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Can you install a GFCI outlet on your own? Most of the time— yes. If any of these outlets stop working in your home, it’s crucial to replace them right away.

Especially if the faulty outlet is in a wet location such as a bathroom or kitchen. But if you have any doubts or discomfort working with electricity, an electrician really should perform this work.

 

Here’s a quick breakdown of how to install a GFCI outlet:

Step 1: Turn off the circuit breaker. 

Step 2: Remove the outlet cover and the switch with a screwdriver (Pro-Tip: test the outlet with an electrical outlet testing tool to make sure it is completely off and no currents are flowing through the wires)

Step 3: Disconnect the “hot wire” with (right side, black wire, brass screw)

Step 4: Disconnect the neutral wire (left side, white wire, silver screw)

Step 5: Disconnect the grounding wire (green or tan insulation and screw) 

Step 6: Replace the outlet with GFCI, making sure to follow the instructions on the package and use the appropriate screws for each wire.

If you have fewer than 2 wires or more than 3 in your old outlet, call an electrician as these outlets will require a few extra steps. 

 

RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST

GFCI Protection Cost

Ground-fault circuit interrupters

A standard GFCI outlet costs anywhere from $15 to $50 at your local hardware store. You’ll need to know the amp and voltage of each outlet you are replacing before going the DIY route.

Ground-fault circuit interrupters absolutely need to be installed by an electrician when there is anything more or less than three wires. We also don’t recommend installing these yourself if you have little home improvement experience (there’s still the risk of being shocked, after all!).

If you hire an electrician for your GFCI protection, the average cost to replace a single outlet with a licensed professional is about $120 per receptacle. 

 

RELATED: OVERLOOKED BASICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTOR ALARMS

How To Test GFCI Outlet

GFCI protection outlet

You should be testing your GFCI protection outlet every single month. 

Here’s how it’s done:

Step 1: Plug a lamp, phone charger, or some other small electrical device into your outlet

Step 2: Press the “Test” button. If you hear a clicking sound, this indicates the circuit has tripped, and the lamp or phone should turn off.  

Step 3: Press the “Reset” button (it should have popped out when you hit “Test”). If the lamp or phone turns back on, then your GFCI protector is working just fine! If not, try these next steps:

 

NEXT: UNDERSTANDING, RECOGNIZING AND REMOVING CLOTH WIRING: YOUR COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE

 

What To Do When Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Won’t Reset

If your GFCI button won’t push in, the solution may be as simple as pushing it harder to reach the unit. If still it doesn’t reset, there may be another GFCI on the same circuit keeping you from being able to reset it.

More than one on a circuit can sometimes be finicky. So go ahead and trip that second one, and then try to reset the first one.

Lastly, head to the service panel to see if you need to reset the circuit breaker. If all else fails, you probably either have a faulty GFCI or even a true ground-fault condition. In this case, further repairs are needed so you should call a qualified electrician.

 

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