If you live in a hurricane-risk area or are preparing to insure your home, wind mitigation inspections are something you’ve probably heard about — but might not totally understand. A wind mitigation inspection evaluates the specific features of your home that help it resist wind and storm damage. The goal is to document how well your home is built to withstand hurricanes and other high-wind events, and in many cases, it can directly reduce your homeowners insurance premiums and strengthen coverage confidence.
Wind mitigation inspections are especially common in Florida and other storm-prone regions where high winds impact structures. Unlike a general home inspection or a 4 point inspection, a wind mitigation inspection focuses only on the features that protect the home from wind damage — not the overall condition of every system or component.
Insurance companies care about wind mitigation because homes that have proven structural protections are statistically less likely to suffer severe wind damage. By documenting these features, homeowners can not only meet insurance company requirements but also unlock credits and discounts that reduce the cost of coverage over time.
Insurance providers use wind mitigation inspections as a tool to evaluate risk related to windstorms and hurricanes. In states like Florida, insurers are even required by law to offer premium discounts when a certified inspection shows certain wind-resistant features. This creates a direct incentive for homeowners to have their homes evaluated and documented.
For homeowners, that means a wind mitigation inspection report can help secure better coverage terms and potentially significant savings. In some cases, policies won’t be issued or renewed without this documentation — especially in high-risk hurricane zones where standard risk assessments may otherwise flag the home as a higher liability.
Wind mitigation inspections look at specific structural aspects of a home that help it resist wind forces. These can include how the roof is attached to the walls, the shape of the roof, the presence of impact-rated openings, and any secondary water resistance barriers installed.
Roof-to-wall attachment is a key element. This refers to how securely the roof is fastened to the rest of the structure: clips, hurricane straps, or other reinforced connections can significantly improve wind resistance.
The roof shape itself also matters. Hip roofs, which have sloped sides on all edges, tend to perform better in high winds compared to gable roofs because they distribute forces more evenly and are less likely to create uplift points.
Opening protections, such as impact-rated windows, hurricane shutters, and reinforced garage doors, are another focus. These features help prevent windborne debris from entering the home and creating internal pressures that drive structural failure.
Secondary water resistance systems, additional waterproofing barriers beneath roof coverings, are also evaluated when present. These help reduce water intrusion in the event of shingle loss during storms.
A wind mitigation inspection is not a full home inspection. It does not assess the condition of your electrical, plumbing, or HVAC systems like a 4 point inspection does. Instead, wind mitigation is laser-focused on wind-resilience features and how well they are built to protect the home.
Because of this focus, the report generated from a wind mitigation inspection follows a specific format that many insurers require — in Florida, for example, the official form used is the OIR-B1-1802, which insurers use to calculate applicable credits.
Preparation for a wind mitigation inspection often begins with understanding what the inspector will be evaluating. Making sure that roof access is available, pulling documentation on storm-resistant upgrades you’ve already made, or ensuring impact-rated openings are documented can help streamline the process.
Unlike general home repairs, wind mitigation readiness is more about structural documentation than fixing visible defects. If your home already has reinforced features, you can make sure you provide the inspector with any permits, product stickers, or installation records to support their evaluation.
After a wind mitigation inspection, homeowners typically receive a detailed report outlining the wind-resistant features found and any categories that did not qualify for credits. This report is used by insurance companies to apply discounts to your policy or determine if coverage requirements are met.
A successful inspection with several qualifying features can result in meaningful savings — some homeowners see double-digit reductions in their wind portion of insurance premiums. Even if not all features qualify, the report can serve as a roadmap to future upgrades that improve both safety and cost savings.
What age homes typically need wind mitigation inspections?
While wind mitigation inspections are valuable for any home exposed to high winds, many insurance companies request them when issuing or renewing policies, especially in hurricane-prone states like Florida.
How long does a wind mitigation inspection take?
Most wind mitigation inspections take 30 to 60 minutes, depending on roof access and home size.
Can a homeowner fail a wind mitigation inspection?
There is no “pass or fail,” but the report may show that certain features do not qualify for credits. Homes without qualifying features simply won’t receive the associated insurance discounts.
Do wind mitigation inspections expire?
In Florida, insulation and underwriting standards accept these reports for up to five years, though some insurers may have their own validity requirements.
Is wind mitigation inspection the same as a home inspection?
No. A standard home inspection assesses overall condition, whereas a wind mitigation inspection specifically focuses on how well the home resists wind and storm forces.
Wind mitigation inspections are not just paperwork — they are a strategic way for homeowners to document resilience, improve insurance outcomes, and make their homes safer in the face of severe weather.
If your home was built in the 1960s or 1970s, a certified home inspection of its electrical wiring is extremely important to ensure it is safe for you and your family. During this period, due to copper shortages because of the Vietnam War, many homes’ branch-circuit wirings were made with single-strand aluminum. This substituted material has been identified as a fire-danger to homes due to aluminum’s poor conductivity, compared to that of typical copper. Occasionally, we’ve even found this wiring in homes outside of this era.
As a material, aluminum expands and contracts much more than typical copper wiring, which can cause loose connections as electricity passes through, potentially resulting in a fire. In fact, according to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), homes that have aluminum branch-circuit wiring are 55-times more likely to have connections that are deemed fire-hazards than homes with typical copper wiring.
With a home inspection from Whitt Inspections, our inspectors are trained to identify homes with this dangerous aluminum-based wiring. A certified inspection is the best and safest way to ensure your home is safe from this fire-hazard, as without a direct, visual inspection, detection is nearly impossible. Aluminum-based wiring is prone to overheating and fire with no previous signs of issues, meaning a failure could happen at any moment with no previous indication.
Not only is aluminum much more prone to expanding and contracting, it is also more resistant to electrical flow than its copper counterpart, which means it requires larger wires to pass electricity. With homes today using more electricity, these dangerous and dated aluminum-wired circuits are more susceptible to being overloaded with greater electricity usage, potentially resulting in a fire. Aluminum wiring is also more likely to fall victim to corrosion as a result of usage and age, also posing a fire-hazard.
It’s important to note that not all aluminum wiring is considered bad, and some is still even installed on new construction today. These are mainly multi-strand aluminum wires, which are still regularly used on service and entrance conductors, as well as larger circuits in the home like the stove, water heater and HVAC systems. This is typically fine. It’s the single-strand wire variety that can be of concern. Although alloys were revised to this wiring over the years that may have somewhat improved its performance, single-strand aluminum is still a concern. Also, you may run into obstacles obtaining homeowners’ insurance. Fortunately, there are CPSC approved repairs available that can be performed by a qualified electrician, which many insurance carriers will accept.
If your home was built in the 1960s and 1970s, a home inspection to analyze the condition and material of your electrical systems is highly-recommended to ensure the home is safe. Call today to have your home inspected and have the confidence that it is in as great condition as possible. If we do find single-strand aluminum wiring, we will let you know and recommend options a qualified electrician can perform to repair or even replace them.
For all your home inspection needs, choose Whitt Inspections.
Just because we’re all lucky enough to live in Florida doesn’t mean we can’t get into the holiday spirit! Now is the perfect time to get some plants for the season and bring a little color into your home.
We meet a lot of transplants throughout the year as they move to the Sunshine State. And while most are initially excited to trade in snow for sun, we notice that new Florida homeowners may sometimes feel a bit deprived during the holidays.
“It just doesn’t feel the same,” they’ll say.
Well, don’t worry because we’re going to show you exactly how you can deck your halls with festive plants to rejuvenate that holiday cheer!
RELATED: GARDENING IN FLORIDA WITH MONARCH BUTTERFLIES
Florida weather is notoriously unpredictable. One year, it’ll be 55 degrees on December 25th, and the next, it’ll be 80 degrees.
With such uncertainty, picking out plants for this time of year probably seems like unnecessary stress. Our trick for Florida homeowners is to pick out the plants that can survive and thrive year-round!
Believe it or not, all 7 of these plants can survive the Florida heat and rain. Pay special attention to the care instructions, and you’ll have spectacular plants for years to come.
RELATED: HOW TO INCREASE CURB APPEAL
7. Christmas Cactus
This one is interesting because you have a few color options! Home Guides says, “The Christmas cactus is most often grown as a houseplant and blooms in a wide range of colors from the traditional red to purple, pink, orange, gold, and white.”
If you want to make a show of your plant, you can prune it throughout the year to encourage more buds to grow. You’ll need to do this before early Fall if you want your cactus to branch out by the end of the year.
You can keep this festive plant around for decades if you treat it right!
Care Instructions:
6. Poinsettias
While these are definitely the most recognizable holiday plant, Floridians have a hard time hanging on to them year-round. Yet, they are considered tropical plants, and will thrive here. The biggest reason poinsettias won’t survive until the big day is because of overwatering.
If you plan on keeping these beauties around until the holidays next year, make sure to only water them when the soil (or leaves) feel dry to the touch.
CAUTION: Poinsettias can be toxic to your pets. Keep them as far out of reach as possible, and keep an eye out for white sap.
Care Instructions:
Here’s a fun bit of history about mistletoe you can use to impress your guests:
In America, the tradition of kissing under the mistletoe came around 1820 after the publication of The Sketch Book. The author, Washington Irving, recounted the Christmas Eve traditions he observed in England. One of which noted,
“The mistletoe is still hung up in farm-houses and kitchens at Christmas, and the young men have the privilege of kissing the girls under it, plucking each time a berry from the bush. When the berries are all plucked the privilege ceases.”
This traditional plant is actually parasitic, so it has to latch onto other plants in order to grow. In Florida, you can find mistletoe on:
CAUTION: Mistletoe is poisonous when ingested. Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after handling.
Care Instructions:
RELATED: WHAT IS THE BEST SOD GRASS TO GROW IN CENTRAL FLORIDA?
If you’ve planted new roots in Florida, you may find yourself dreaming of a white Christmas– just not the cold kind.
To replicate those northern holiday scenes, place a few bouquets of Cyclamen around your house. These are the perfect plants for the holiday season because their petals are bright white and heart-shaped! Cyclamen also comes in crimson red, pink, and purple.
This tropical plant thrives in warm climates and requires little looking after. The only downside is that these can be toxic to your pets (are we seeing a theme here?), so make sure they’re installed out of reach.
Care Instructions:
How typical! But here’s why we think holly is an excellent option for Floridians:
Holly is one of the most traditional plants for the holidays. It has green foliage with red berries, making your home appear merry and bright (literally).
While Christmas wreaths are made from holly, it’s actually more of a landscape plant. It can spread 12 feet wide and up to 40 feet tall! This makes it great for hedging.
However, it’s also an easy plant to pot and trim for a simple holiday accent piece.
Here’s a great video on how to grow evergreen holly:
Care Instructions:
Right Photo Credit: Holland Bulb Farms
There are a ton of plants that bloom in the Florida weather, and amaryllis is no different. In fact, this is a plant that you can grow year-round.
You can find pre-potted amaryllis almost anywhere. This beautiful red plant often comes as a wax bulb and only takes 4-8 weeks to fully grow. That means you can get an Amaryllis bulb in November and have extravagant 6-inch wide flowers by December!
Care Instructions:
Is this not the coolest Christmas flower you’ve ever seen?
Aptly named, the Candy Cane Sorrel is a trumpet-shaped flower with white and red stripes. These are low-growing perennials that can be easily grown in full sun or partial shade, especially in well-drained clay soil, loamy soil, or sandy soil.
The Candy Cane Sorrel blooms in the Fall and may whither during the summer. You can choose to plant these underneath an outdoor window sill, or have an entire candy cane garden on your own. However, they don’t do great in humidity or extreme heat, so consider potting this flower if you want to keep it around.
Another neat thing about this one? At night the petals will close up, making the flowers truly resemble a candy cane!
Care Instructions:
NEXT: 5 FAMOUS HOUSES YOU DIDN’T KNOW ARE IN CENTRAL FLORIDA
‘Tis the season— for some tips on holiday safety!
It’s hard to deny that November and December are the most anticipated months of the year. Between gift-giving, food, and family time, what’s not to love?
Oh, that’s right— the stress.
It wouldn’t be the holidays if something didn’t go awry, right? One year it’s the hassle of hanging up the Christmas lights, and the next, it’s burning the dinner turkey.
So, to make your holiday season more enjoyable, we’ve laid out advice for anything that could possibly go wrong.
From wrapping paper recycling to fire safety at home, here are tips on how to have a safe, fun, and merry holiday season!
RELATED: 8 HOLIDAY LIGHTING SAFETY TIPS
Now, we’re giving these tips in the spirit of keeping your family safe. But they’ll also ensure that your home is always in pristine condition.
Something that will bode in your favor should you decide to sell.
As home inspectors, we can’t tell you how many of these simple, routine steps can fall through the cracks. And if you go year after year without checking on your home’s safety, you’re bound to have a few costly structural issues down the road.
With it being the end of the year, you probably had some of these on your To-Do list anyway. So, let’s go through this home maintenance checklist to make sure everything is in working order for the holidays this year.
RELATED: 5 WAYS TO REDUCE YOUR ELECTRIC BILL IN FLORIDA
Would you believe that there are about 160 home fires started every year from Christmas trees?
Yep, the National Fire Protection Association estimates that between 2014-2018, these fire accidents caused 14 injuries, 2 deaths, and over $10 million in property damages.
Most of these fires started in December or January as natural Christmas trees start to dry up. What’s even scarier is the fact that the peak time for when these fires start is between 6 p.m. and midnight— when most of us are asleep.
So how can you prevent this Christmas disaster? Because decorative lights cause 17% of these fires, you should start by making sure your Christmas lights don’t have any frayed wires or broken bulbs. If they do, it’s time to replace them.
Cords, plugs, and wiring are the other contributing factors. So it’s worth investigating their state when you install them, a nd the condition of your outlets and other home fixtures such as nearby lamps.
And as always, unplug your tree before going to bed!
Here are some more valuable tree tips for holiday safety from the NFPA.
You may know your way around the kitchen, but we all know how chaotic it can be when cooking dinner for extended family.
With so much going on, even the most expertly choreographed chefs are prone to slip up. To eliminate any mishaps, here are a few things to be mindful of before prepping your extravagant dinner:
RELATED: IS YOUR HOME FIRE SAFE?
Speaking of house fires, it’s about time to check your smoke and carbon monoxide detector alarms.
Smoke alarm batteries typically need to be changed every 6-12 months, unless their sealed units. You shouldn’t have to replace the alarm entirely unless it’s over 10 years old.
Here’s how to test them to make sure they’re working properly:
CO detectors can be plug-ins for your wall, or they’re embedded into your home’s electrical system. The latter should have a battery backup which you need to replace once or twice a year.
Here’s how to test your CO detector to make sure it’s working:
Your kids and guests should know your fire escape plan. Your escape plan should list at least two exit options, the location of your fire extinguisher and where to meet outside the home (the end of your driveway is always a safe place). You can even get cool printable escape plans to place around your house for everyone to see!
In case of an emergency, you should have two primary exits, so make sure nothing is blocking them (be mindful of where you place your holiday decorations). If you have guests who smoke, it’s best to offer them a comfortable place to do this outside. Have ashtrays readily available, along with water to pour on the butts for optimal safety.
RELATED: WHY CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS ARE IMPORTANT
The type of air filter you have dictates how often you need to change it. If you have a disposable fiberglass air filter, you’ll want to change it every 30 days. For pleated filters, you can go as long as three months before having to pop in a new one.
To air (pun intended) on the side of caution, we recommend checking up on the condition of your filter once a month. This is especially true for homeowners who have pets, allergies, and larger homes.
So don’t forget to replace those filters so that your holiday guests can take a breath of fresh air. Literally. A new air filter can help eliminate pesticides, cleaning supplies, pollen, dust, and dander!
RELATED: HOW TO CHANGE OR REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE IN YOUR HOME
Whatever you do, do not burn your wrapping paper!
Throwing bows and ribbons into the fireplace might be a holiday tradition for your family, but it’s an ongoing problem in the U.S. The color pigments in your gift wrap can cause a chemical reaction when they burn, creating an insidious (and hazardous) flame.
So remember to recycle that wrapping paper this year, not rekindle it.
If you genuinely want to maintain an environment-friendly holiday, try to avoid using these items in your gift wrapping:
You’d be surprised at how many people look for tips on how to paint a room. It may seem pretty straightforward, but it’s actually really easy to screw up.
Just by missing one step in the process, you could end up spending more money on paint and more time on the project. Next thing you know, your weekend DIY home makeover turns into a month-long endeavor.
So what exactly do people get wrong about painting their interior walls? There are questions like how many gallons does it take to paint a room? To prime or not to prime? Which order do you paint a room?
Plus, if you’re just moving into your home, you’re probably looking for paint that lasts. That’s why you don’t want to pick up any old brand of paint at Home Depot. Nothing at all against big orange, but knowing the type of paint, brushes, and primer you’ll need for this project is key for a flawless paint job.
We won’t get overly technical. Instead, let’s just walk through the steps on how to paint a room (properly), plus some extra tips you probably didn’t consider.
RELATED: SUMMER HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS
You’re eager to splash some fresh colors on your walls— we get it. But without accurately prepping your interior walls, you may not get the look you were going for.
If your plan is to paint this weekend, the best use of your time is to slowly prep throughout the week so that you’re ready for the Big Painting Day when it finally comes.
It may not be ideal to have your bedroom furniture displaced in the garage or family room, but it’s only for a few days! Do it. And cover your floors.
You could also opt to cover your furniture. But do NOT trust that you’ll just be extra careful— we promise it will go wrong.
Moving your furniture entirely will help you see blemishes on your walls, and it will make it easier to cover your floors. Plus, you’ll be able to measure your space more accurately.
Once you move your furniture, measure the room’s length and width. Then use this formula to calculate the square footage:
Length x Width= Feet Squared
(Example: 10 ft x 10 ft= 100 square feet)
If you have a room that isn’t perfectly square or rectangular, you can find the total area by adding the square footage of the walls that make up the room. Here are some instructions on how to calculate odd room dimensions.
You’ll need about a gallon of paint for every 400 square feet. So if you’re painting a room that is 800 square feet, you should pick up at least two gallons of paint.
Whether this masterpiece is taking place in the living room or the bedroom, you should thoroughly inspect your walls before picking up your paint.
With furniture out of the way, you’ll be able to see any scrapes or dents. For blemishes, all you need to do is wipe them off with soap and water. For dents or holes, you’ll need to buy some something to repair those with. This stuff is pretty good; it dries in minutes, and it’s only four bucks at Target!
While you’re at it, make sure to remove all the outlet covers for a truly blank canvas.
RELATED: HOW TO FIND A STUD IN A PLASTER WALL
One of the best tips on how to paint a room really well is to sand it. In fact, you probably don’t even need to use a primer if you have good quality paint and use two coats.
However, if you’re painting over a semi-gloss or gloss paint, you should at least put some sandpaper to it and give it some “teeth.” It’s also worth “dry dusting” the walls to get rid of the sanding dust.
Now it’s time to break out the painter’s tape! We recommend painting the ceiling first, so secure the tape at the top of your wall at the very edge of your ceiling. If you’re not painting the ceiling, then tape off the trimmings using a good painter’s tape.
We also recommend taping around your outlets so that you do NOT paint inside the outlets or switches. That’s a BIG no-no, and potentially dangerous!
This is one of our favorite tips on how to paint a room because it can save you money.
The most popular misconception we see from DIY painters is that you have to prime before painting walls. As we mentioned, primer isn’t inherently necessary for painting a room, contrary to popular belief.
There are only a few instances when you’ll need to prime beforehand:
For example, if you’re going from white to Ultimate Gray and you do a quick wash of your drywall, you don’t need to waste time or money on priming.
Now that you’ve taken progressive steps, you can rest assured that you’ll get the paint job completely done this weekend!
Another common question we see is which order to paint a room. Here’s our suggestion:
RELATED: FLORIDA HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Some people ultimately decide to hire professional painters because they have a few tricks that seem to get the job done faster. And well— professionally.
But we decided to give you a few tips on how to paint a room that are trade secrets (so, don’t tell anyone we told you)!
RELATED: HOW TO CHANGE OR REPLACE A LIGHT FIXTURE IN YOUR HOME
As you can tell from the steps on how to paint a room, a proper prep should usually take longer than the actual painting itself.
At least, if you want a good result.
And if you want your paint to last for years to come, we recommend doing at least two coats of paint. This prevents “Flashing” or “Holiday-ing” (a common, unofficial trade term), which refers to a bad paint job where you can see a bit of the old paint color underneath.
This is just a fancy term for detailing at the edges of your paint job.
Cutting in is probably the most frustrating part of painting because it requires painting a straight line (such as the line between your wall and ceiling or two different wall colors).
The best way to cut in is to use a manual brush. Get the best brush you can afford for this. Try to refrain from painting the edge of your walls with a roller brush. Instead, use a stiff-bristled, angled brush to get those precise details.
Here’s a terrific video with visual tips:
People like to dip their brush into the paint can and brush it along the side to eliminate the extra paint. After all, who wants paint splatter to end up all over the floor?
However, the better, more professional practice is to dip your brush into the paint and then pat the brush on the edge of the can to remove the excess paint. Then, quickly bring your paintbrush to the wall and keep it moving. This saves you from having to constantly dip your brush into the can, and it helps you achieve a more even paint job.
When you’re cutting in, the consistent movement helps you achieve that straight line. It also helps to use a “W” pattern with rollers to get the room painted faster and more consistently.
RELATED: WHAT IS THE BEST SOD GRASS TO GROW IN CENTRAL FLORIDA?
Ok, we said 3 extra tips, but you’re getting 4 instead. Who doesn’t like a little lagniappe?
So finally, let’s talk about the types of paint sheens you have at your disposal. It can be overwhelming so let’s look at the most popular options for interior walls:
Then there are options such as eggshell sheen (great for interior walls), satin (best used in kitchens and bathrooms), and semi-gloss for casings (i.e., baseboards, trim moulding, etc.).
Benjamin Moore has an excellent guide for choosing paints based on which room you’re painting.
RELATED: HOW TO INCREASE CURB APPEAL
The bottom line when it comes to tips on how to paint a room: try to choose the best quality paint and brushes that you can afford and never skimp on good prep!
Back in 1992, Hurricane Andrew changed the game for building houses in Florida. The damages it accrued cost about $26.5 billion and, according to the NPS, “more than 250,000 people were left homeless, 82,000 businesses were destroyed or damaged, and about 100,000 residents of south Dade County permanently left the area in Andrew’s wake.”
This unprecedented disaster especially took a toll on the Miami-Dade County area. The massive devastation after Andrew is actually the reason that, since 2002, we’ve had a statewide Florida Building Code (FBC) in effect.
Can you believe that we didn’t have one before this? Prior to the FBC, there were still codes, but it was a hodge-podge of various different rules that the hundreds of jurisdictions statewide implemented and enforced, often inconsistently.
Today, Miami-Dade (and now Broward) Counties are considered the HVHZ (High-Velocity Hurricane Zone). They have the absolute highest requirements in the state for home hurricane protections– and actually, the nation.
But areas outside of the HVHZ can still have a high risk of wind damage, so The Florida Building Code requires features such as “hurricane windows” (i.e., opening protection) in some other areas of Florida, but not all.
So you see, determining which and even if you need hurricane windows in Florida can get pretty technical. Let us simplify it for you by breaking down what you actually need to know!
RELATED: HOW YOU CAN SAVE MONEY ON HOME INSURANCE WITH A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION
You may hear your home inspector mention “opening protection” for your home. This refers to any entry into your home that we consider an opening– typically doors, windows, garage doors, skylights, glass blocks, etc.
Opening protection means your doors and windows have a barrier that has been tested against debris impact and pressure in case of a hurricane. So, hurricane windows and hurricane shutters both fall under the umbrella of opening protection.
Other aspects of opening protection include:
It’s also worth noting that regulations and code requirements for each of these materials differ from county to county, and sometimes in different areas of the same county.
For instance, in Polk county, they don’t require opening protection whatsoever. But in Pinellas County, you definitely do! Plus, nearly all areas within 1-mile of the coast require it statewide. We call this the WBDR (Wind-Borne Debris Region), which the smaller HVHZ (i.e., Miami-Dade/Broward) sits within.
Here’s a great map from SoFlo Impact Windows that demonstrates which counties in Florida are in WBDR and HVHZ areas that require higher-grade impact hurricane windows:
RELATED: HOME INSURANCE IN FLORIDA: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Home inspectors like us who also perform Wind Mitigation Inspections can investigate these aspects of your home. While we don’t perform code inspections, we can prepare a report for your insurance company that may help you qualify for discounts.
The Florida Building Code is updated every 3-years. This includes the boundaries of the WBDR, which has expanded over time. We are currently on the 7th Edition as of January 2021.
However, the wind mitigation report is valid for up to five years. Because of this, you should also have a new wind mitigation inspection performed and submitted to your homeowners’ insurance company every five years.
During this inspection, we determine the weakest form of wind-borne debris protection of each opening.
The levels of protection from strongest to weakest are:
While the Florida Building Code can specify the required opening protection in your area, you typically do not have to install these features unless building new or performing a replacement. Understanding what’s required and where can be a real challenge. Therefore, we always recommend first contacting your local jurisdiction’s building department for the most accurate requirements at your specific address, before having any work performed.
RELATED: SUMMER HOME MAINTENANCE TIPS
We always get people asking about ratings when they inquire about their hurricane windows in Florida. But what they’re really asking — in a technical sense — is if the windows have approval ratings for both:
1.) Impact (i.e., large or small missile), and
2.) Cyclic (i.e., pressure ratings).
Items that are verified as both Impact and Cyclic rated will have gone through independent testing proving their performance. They’ll have either a “Product Approval Number (i.e. FL#),” or a “Notice of Acceptance (NOA)” assigned to them. As mentioned above, this can be verified on the product with a sticker or imprint. The State of Florida provides the Florida Product Approval Number, while Miami-Dade County issues their similar NOA (Notice of Acceptance) to prove these products are “verified.”
It’s important to know that while some items are impact/cyclic verified for the WBDR, they are still not necessarily HVHZ approved.
Before shopping for hurricane windows for your Florida home, you can search these online databases where you can find product approvals/acceptance yourself. But we still also recommend contacting your local building department, too. In construction speak, we call them the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction).
Also, while the windows and doors themselves can be rated, some specific boards, panels, shutters, or fabrics can also be verified as rated opening protections, and are usually a more affordable option.
If your home is in an HVHZ area, you may even choose to install shutters over your already resilient hurricane windows for double-layer protection during hurricane season.
RELATED: WHY ARE POOL/SPA INSPECTIONS IMPORTANT?
You’ll never be able to get a straightforward answer when determining how much hurricane windows cost. Location, materials, window size, and experience of your hurricane window installer all play a role in the pricing structure.
To give you an estimate, you can expect to pay about $62 per square foot for your hurricane windows.
RELATED: WHAT IS A WIND MITIGATION INSPECTION?
There is no difference between hurricane and impact windows. As we hinted earlier, calling them hurricane windows is really a simple, generalized term. Because these windows are both impact and cyclic tested, you should know that they’ll cost more. According to Home Advisor, the average impact hurricane window will cost between $2,679-14,151.
That’s a huge difference, right?
Our advice if you’re already a homeowner is to call your local building official. They’ll be able to tell you what opening protection you specifically need in your area (either on new builds or for replacing windows/doors). Compare these requirements to the windows/doors you already have installed. Look up the labels online for a FL# or NOA if you can.
Maybe you already have what you need. Or maybe it’s time to shop around. Luckily, there are plenty of “hurricane window” contractors here in Florida.
Lastly, after all is said and done, then it’s time to get a new wind mitigation inspection performed, which may improve the discounts on your homeowners’ insurance.
A window screen replacement can be a pain in the butt. And in all honestly, it’s usually one of those things we ignore. After all, we still have our window to protect us from the Florida weather, right?
Well, not exactly.
If you’re buying a home in Florida, your home inspection report will bring up damaged or missing window screens.
Why the heck would we do that? We’re glad you asked!
RELATED: WHERE TO SAVE A FEW BUCKS WHEN BUYING A HOME
While Florida doesn’t technically require homeowners to replace their ripped window screens, most home inspectors still make a note of it. Unless you are a property manager, then they are required for rentals.
This process is a lot more refined than first-time homebuyers realize. Aspects of a home that you may not have thought to look at (like window screens) might be a cause for concern later down the road.
Overlooked home discrepancies like clogged drains can cause plumbing issues, while something as simple as a dirty filter can be catastrophic to your entire AC unit. And that’s a pretty costly deal— especially here in Florida.
Your windows serve as a primary barrier between the safety of your home and the outside world. Broken screens are a structural and health-related concern that home inspectors find relevant to the home buying process.
Here are some other reasons why we might suggest window screen replacement.
RELATED: OVERLOOKED BASICS OF CARBON MONOXIDE AND SMOKE DETECTOR ALARMS
If you’ve lived in Florida long enough, you know that mosquitos are an ever-present pest.
But did you know that, by far, mosquitos are the deadliest creature in the world?
Sure, you’re more likely to simply get an itchy bump on your arm if a mosquito bites you. However, mosquitoes carry diseases that are routinely transmitted to humans.
According to the CDC, “West Nile virus is one of the most common mosquito-borne diseases in the continental United States.” Some other known illnesses caused by these creatures include Malaria, Yellow Fever, and Zika Virus.
Floridians are especially at risk because mosquitos are prevalent after heavy rains and hurricanes. Believe it or not, one million people die from mosquito-borne diseases every year.
These window screens help keep you and your family safe.
Window screens may not look like much, but they do more work than they’re given credit for.
Besides critter protection, window screens can also expand the life of your windows. It helps prevent water from pooling along your window edges which can cause your window frame to rust.
When your window frame is damaged, it can lead to foggy windows (which will need replacing) or even excess water in your home. This water infiltration can cause mold, interior paint peeling, and other structural issues from Florida’s inclement weather.
Window screens are also just an additive layer of protection in case something comes flying at your window!
The total cost to DIY your window screen replacement is about $25-55. That’s assuming you only need to replace the screen and not the frame. Here’s a breakdown of everything you’ll need:
1. Aluminum or fiberglass screening $10-15
2. Spline replacement $15-20
3. Spline tool $10
4. Utility knife $10
5. Screen repair kit for small patches $3
Here’s a great video on how to repair your window screen:
To hire someone for window screen replacement, you’re looking at an average cost of about $135 per window.
These costs aren’t something you would typically bother the seller with at negotiations.
But when your home inspector tells you that it’s five window screens that need replacing, then it might be worth bringing up.
RELATED: 20 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT YOUR HOME INSPECTION
When just one window screen needs replacing, all you need are the tools above for a quick DIY fix. The biggest issue for window screen replacement comes when the frame is bent. Now, you have the restore the entire screen unit.
So let’s get into how to replace a window screen frame.
Measure the width of your window first. Using your tape measure, go from corner to corner. Try to get to the nearest 1/8 inch.
To measure the window height, find the lip. This is the rubber piece at the top and bottom of your window (where your previous screen frame sat).
For double windows, you’ll want to measure from directly behind the lip, up to the window channel (the section separating the top pane from the bottom pane). Add 1/8 inch here.
Here’s a video on how to measure for window screens of various sizes.
Now that you know your window’s measurements, you can choose the right size pre-framed window screen.
Removing window screens and their frame is pretty simple.
Open the window and press gently on the corner of the frame. This tension helps release the rounded springs that are at the top of the frame. You may need the help of a tool for this, but the bottom half should pop out from behind the lip. Get a grip on the bottom of the screen and pull down to release the frame from the window. Side note: On some windows this should be done from the inside, so if you’re having trouble, go to the other side of the window.
You may also have tabs on the bottom of your screen. If that’s the case, lift them simultaneously, and then push the screen out. Pull down to release the top of half of the window screen frame from the window.
For tricky window screen removals, watch this video.
Now that your screen is out, you can choose to replace it with a pre-framed screen that you can get at Home Depot. Or you can re-screen it yourself using the tutorial above.
To replace your window with a pre-framed screen, align it with the top half of your window opening. Try to get those springs into place.
From there, your screen should have tabs that you can use to lower the bottom of your screen behind the lip. It should snap right into place!
Here’s a video for visual instruction.
RELATED: HOW MUCH DOES A HOME INSPECTION COST IN FLORIDA?
We hope this quick tutorial can help you DIY your window screen replacement (or get you a better deal for closing on your new home)! And remember to always ask your home inspector about the condition of your home’s windows and screens.
Providing Home Inspection Services to ALL of Polk, Hillsborough, and Eastern Pasco Counties, including: Lakeland, Winter Haven, Bartow, Auburndale, Mulberry, Haines City, Davenport, Poinciana, Celebration, Lake Wales, Plant City, Brandon, Valrico, Seffner, Tampa, Riverview, Lithia, FishHawk, Zephyrhills, Dade City, Wesley Chapel, and Land O’ Lakes.
